An international jewel thief who claims to have pocketed a small fortune in gems while shoplifting in ritzy stores from New York to Monte Carlo was arrested in Southern California for allegedly trying to steal a coat.

Doris Payne, 79, pleaded not guilty to a felony count of grand theft in Superior Court in Orange County, district attorney's spokeswoman Farrah Emami said.

Court officials said Payne was represented by a public defender, but the attorney could not be reached for comment.

Payne was arrested Friday after security guards said she walked out of a department store with a 1,300 US dollar Burberry trench coat, police Lieutenant Mark Manley said.

Payne was on parole for a previous theft conviction at the time and she was jailed without bail.

Payne has described a five-decade career of shoplifting in the US and Europe. Authorities said she used at least 22 aliases.

The Jewellers Security Alliance, an industry trade group, sent out bulletins in the 1970s warning about her.

The daughter of an illiterate coal miner, Payne said her criminal career began when she was 23 and walked out of a Pittsburgh jewellery store with a 22,000 US dollar diamond.

"I've had regrets, and I've had a good time," she said.

Payne has served jail time in Nevada, Ohio, Kentucky, West Virginia, Colorado and Wisconsin.

Variety reported last year that Halle Berry had signed to star in a movie about her life called Who Is Doris Payne that was in development.