Zambia is not an obvious choice for backpackers. It’s lacking the tourist safari infrastructure of South Africa, the well-travelled delta of Botswana and the mountain gorillas of Congo. But that’s precisely why you need to go!
You can raft the river (genuinely terrifying), bungee jump into it (ditto), take a booze cruise above the falls, jet boat at high speed or take a zipline on the river banks
Much of the country really is uncharted territory and the backpackers that make it to parks like Kafue and Lochinvar are welcomed with a genuine hospitality that’s sometimes lacking in countries more familiar with the tourist euro.
Once you’ve gone about as far off the beaten track as you can in Zambia, experience the train ride of a lifetime to Tanzania and find out why the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater are such huge tourist draws.
All that’s left is to conquer Mt Kilimanjaro and recover with a week in Zanzibar. Here’s how to do it.
Week one
Lusaka isn’t a city with immediate charms, but take a few days to explore and the sunny vibe of its dusty, concrete streets will grow on you. Stay at the Eureka Camping Park (www.eurekacamp.com), a great halfway house between the city and the bush and make Munda Wanga Environmental Park your first stop.
The National Museum is also worth a visit to get an idea of the history of the country and the relaxed blend of Catholicism and black magic that is a part of everyday life here. This is also the place to stock up on supplies for your trip.
It is possible to get to even the most remote parts of Zambia through a combination of buses, hitching on any vehicle that will have you and being exceedingly pleasant to anyone in possession of a 4x4. I’ve made it to most of the national parks in this way.
However, this method of getting around is time-consuming and nothing is guaranteed. If you remotely need to stick to a schedule, then hire your own 4x4 in Lusaka.
Expect to pay through the nose for it and ensure you have spare wheels, tools, correct paperwork and plenty of fuel and water in jerry cans.
Lochinvar National Park should be your first stop. If you’re without transport, jump on a bus to Livingstone and get off near Monze to hitch towards the park (a wagging hand replaces the thumb). When you get a lift, ensure that they are also happy to drive you round the park, because getting about on foot is next to impossible. It’s critical to have a tent (and water purification tablets just in case) as the lodge is out of action.
The rewards for getting here are incredible birdwatching, herds of kafue lechwe antelope, the Gwisho Hot Springs, Sebanzi Hill (an Iron Age village) and the Drum Rocks, which echo when tapped.
Week two
Next stop is the wondrous Kafue National Park. It’s one of the largest in Africa but remains relatively unexplored. As a consequence, it will take a dedicated hitcher to make it there but it can be done.
You’ll probably need to return to Lusaka to take a minibus to Mumbwa, then rent a tiny, bottom-sized space in the back of a pick-up until you get to Itezhi Tezhi.
If you pay the driver a little more, he should drop you at New Kalala Camp (www.newkalala.com) a few kilometres away (once you get to this point, it’s inadvisable to walk, unless you want an uncomfortable close-up encounter with lions or elephants).
The round, thatched chalets at New Kalala are perched on a rocky outcrop with a stunning view of Lake Itezhi Tezhi. It’s great value, with camping for just €11.50 a person and tents available for hire.
From your pitch, you’ll easily spot hippo as well as dozens of water birds. The hyrax have been known to stretch out on the sun loungers.
Safaris are offered by jeep, bus and boat (negotiate the rates with them in advance if you can) and you’ll experience some of the most exciting birding in the world with Pel’s fishing owl, black-cheeked lovebird, secretary birds, ground hornbill and saddlebilled storks just some of the highlights.
The game viewing includes sable, reedbuck, eland, honey badger and defassa waterbuck and the big cats. If you are really lucky, you’ll see a pack of the ultra-rare wild dogs.
After two or three days, head on to the Nanzhila Plains Safari Lodge (www.nanzhila.com), which has chalets and a campsite. There’s a view over a waterhole and a chance to see hartebeest, impala, duiker, porcupine, oribi, wildebeest, warthog and kudu.
Week three
From Kafue, go south to Livingstone, the undisputed adventure capital of Zambia.
Victoria Falls is the obvious draw; here, the Zambezi hurls itself down an abrupt 100-metre cliff, becoming the world’s largest sheet of water.
There are any number of ways to risk accidental death here. You can raft the river (genuinely terrifying), bungee jump into it (ditto), take a booze cruise above the falls (I can attest that drinking unlimited cane spirit does little for one’s well-being), jet boat at high speed or take a zipline on the river banks.
And then there’s Livingstone National Park if you want to pack a quick safari in too. Four nights should cover it before you return to Lusaka.
After an overnight to recover from the booze cruise and restock, go north to Luangwa National Park.
Week four
Luangwa is probably the most famous of all the parks in Zambia for its ebony forests, oxbow lagoons and the concentration of animals around the river.
Consequently, there are plenty of safari tours leaving from the capital and in the interests of expediency, it might be better to book one if you can get a good deal. Make sure it includes a walking safari (with an armed guard) if you can.
After the safari, you’re northward bound again. If you’ve got lots of time and stamina, you could hitch to Kasanka, a park of outstanding riverine beauty, where you can view wildlife from your canoe. Volunteers are welcome (www.kasanka.com).
The ‘walk’ will take you through five different climatic zones, with the vegetation changing dramatically until you hit the snowline
Otherwise, ask your tour to drop you back on the main road (T2) and hitch or bus your way to Nakonde to board the iconic train from Zambia to Tanzania. It’s well worth booking a ticket in advance on +260 2112 2064 6 as the train will be packed when it arrives, most people having boarded in Kapiri Mposhi near Lusaka. Book first class ideally, and don’t even consider a third class seat; you’ll struggle to even board the packed to bursting carriage.
The train will take you over the border into Tanzania and onwards through the Selous Game Reserve. The experience of watching giraffe spook at the rattle of the train, and gallop out onto the plains is one of a kind. By the time you arrive at Dar es Salaam, you’re likely to know all there is to know about your fellow travellers; Zambians are very friendly.
Week five
After a night in the capital, get yourself onto a bus bound for Arusha, the gateway to the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater. You won’t need transport here; the agencies are queuing up to cram you into a little jeep and show you one of the most astounding places on earth. They’ll also supply the tent and sometimes even your tent mate to keep costs down.
Some operators add an extra day of walking in Arusha National Park; do it if you can. After the grandiose views of the crater, the sensory overload of animal attractions and the chaos of seeking lions with several other safari vehicles, the peace of trekking through the bush will leave you feeling euphoric.
Week six
While you’re in Arusha, Mt Kilimanjaro is a brooding head in the clouds, about 100 kilometres away. The summit is the highest in Africa and it’s the world’s tallest walkable mountain. If you’ve got the minimum of €850 plus 10 per cent in tips to do it, the ‘walk’ will take you through five different climatic zones, with the vegetation changing dramatically until you hit the snowline.
Find a decent tour operator to take you up there, ensure they are carrying emergency equipment such as oxygen, choose your route carefully and do plenty of hiking before you face up to the mountain. The trip will take a minimum of five nights (or should, unless you want to risk altitude sickness. Take note that on average, 1,000 people are evacuated and 10 die annually due to problems with altitude).
A porter will carry 15 kilos of kit for you (you’ll need to tip them as well as the guide, so budget for it). Time your arrival at Uhuru Point well, and your reward for dragging your protesting carcass up 5,895 metres of mountain will be to see the sunrise over the crater from the summit of Africa; it’s a high (or is that just the lack of breathable air?)
Week seven
After six weeks of camping, hiking and generally roughing it, it’s time to round off the trip with a treat: the exotic spice islands of Zanzibar.
Take the bus back to Dar es Salaam and get yourself on the next ferry to felicity. Seductive Stone Town is a good place to spend a couple of days; after that, get thee to a deserted beach within the archipelago for diving, snorkelling and complete relaxation. Enjoy.
How to budget
Daily life is generally very cheap in Zambia. Street food and transportation cost next to nothing and you can also find good value accommodation easily.
However, once you start adding in organised safaris, costs rise dramatically. Budget for around €20 a day but add more if you intend to take organised trips.
Tanzania is slightly more expensive, at around €25 per day, but you should add the Kilimanjaro trip as a separate expense; the cheapest option there may not be the safest. Your choice of safari company will also influence your overall spend.
Accommodation can be a bit more pricey and you might want to splash out by this stage, but street food is cheap and plentiful.