Had of your fill of our home-based Caravaggio masterpieces? The trail continues in Rome, where some of the artist’s greatest works are to be found.

Madonna di Loreto, at the Church of Sant Agostino.Madonna di Loreto, at the Church of Sant Agostino.

This itinerary takes you through the streets of the old city centre of Rome on a journey of discovery dedicated to the masterpieces of Michelangelo Merisi, also known as Caravaggio.

The itinerary starts at the Galleria Borghese, which boasts the world’s largest collection of works by Caravaggio. Here, visitors can admire as many as six canvases by this artist (who, let us not forget, was also renowned for his rather stormy life). The canvases are the Boy with a Basket of Fruit (1593-1594), the Young Sick Bacchus (1593-1594 ) – both works from Caravaggio’s youth belonging to the sequestered collection of the Cavalier d’Arpino.

At this location, you can also view the Madonna and Child with St Anne (dei Palafrenieri) (1605-1606), which was commissioned by the archconfraternity of the papal grooms for their altar at St Peter’s. The commissioners rejected the work, which was then acquired by the nephew of Paul V Borghese.

David with the Head of Goliath (1605-1606), painted during the artist’s second stay in Naples to curry favour with Cardinal Scipione Borghese in the hope of a return to Rome, is also housed here, together with St Jerome Writing (1605–1606). The latter was painted specifically for Cardinal Scipione Borghese in gratitude (since the cardinal had aided him following troubles with the law). You will also find the Portrait of Pope Paul Paolo V (1605-1606).

On the walls of the small vault Caravaggio painted the deities Jupiter, Neptune and Pluto

The itinerary then takes you to the Casino Ludovisi and the chamber hosting the alchemical laboratory. On the walls of the small vault Caravaggio painted the deities Jupiter, Neptune and Pluto, the children of Chronos, mythological lord of the universe in oils.

From the Casino Ludovisi, you will then stop at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica at the Palazzo Barberini. Here we find Judith Beheading Holofernes, which may be identified with the Judith portrayed by Caravaggio for the banker Ottaviano Costa, as well as the Narcissus, which was attributed to Caravaggio despite some initial opposition.

All opposition was disproved after restoration and now the work has definitively been attributed to Caravaggio.

Young Sick Bacchus, at the Galleria Borghese. Right: The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo houses The Conversion on the Way to Damascus and The Crucifixion of St Peter.Young Sick Bacchus, at the Galleria Borghese. Right: The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo houses The Conversion on the Way to Damascus and The Crucifixion of St Peter.

The next stop on your journey will be the Galleria Doria Pamphilj. Here you will find The Rest on the Flight into Egypt, which may be seen as a painting which most clearly reflects the period of Caravaggio’s training and formation as an artist. The gallery also hosts Mary Magdalene.

The first version of The Inspiration of Saint Matthew had been rejected as unsatisfactory

In the Pinacoteca Capitolina one finds The Fortune Teller, painted for Cardinal Del Monte (which may be dated back to 1594) and St John the Baptist. The existence of this painting had been practically overlooked until, to the great surprise of all, it was discovered in the office of the mayor in 1953. This is most likely the painting ordered in 1602 by the nobleman, Ciriaco Mattei, who commissioned it from Caravaggio in view of the name of his eldest son, Giovanni Battista, who inherited the canvas.

Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto in oil at the Casino Ludovisi.Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto in oil at the Casino Ludovisi.

A work by Caravaggio painted between 1602 and 1604 – The Entombment of Christ – is also to be found at the Musei Vaticani.

The Caravaggio itinerary also includes some churches, including the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi. Between 1599 and 1600, Caravaggio painted the works of the Contarelli chapel, The Calling of St Matthew and The Martyrdom of St Matthew.

Of particular note in this painting is Caravaggio’s original approach to an artistic trend of the period of the counter reformation, namely the practice of commemorating martyr saints popular at that time.

In the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi one also finds the second version of the altarpiece, The Inspiration of St Matthew. The first version had been rejected as unsatisfactory.

The itinerary will then lead you from San Luigi dei Francesi to the Church of Sant’Agostino. On the altar of the first chapel to the left (the chapel of the House of Cavalletti), you can see the Madonna of Loreto.

The final journey around the churches of Rome boasting works by Caravaggio will take you to the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo. To the left of the main altar is the chapel known as the Cappella Cerasi. Next to the central altarpiece (by Annibale Carracci), you find two celebrated works by Caravaggio, The Conversion on the Way to Damascus and The Crucifixion of St Peter.

Information courtesy of www.turismoroma.it.

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