Just like wine, there are many types of wines lovers with many different characters. Some like to taste wine, some like to drink it, others like to talk about it and quite a few like to collect it. A handful like to hoard it and, even fewer, like to invest in it.
Wine storage conditions are extremely important, especially for the latter three types of wine lovers. Unless wine is stored in the correct ambience, with a stable and cool temperature of around 15-16˚C, humidity of between 75-80 per cent, the least vibration and movement possible and away from light, it will mature more quickly and, in the worst scenario, it will spoil.
Malta has in recent years seen a huge increase in the interest in wine. Evidence of this is the new, haphazardly put-together introduction of an excise system on wine. But apart from this, most importers are reporting an ever-increasing demand for top Bordeaux, Burgundy and Italian wines. Internet and international mail sales to Malta are also on the increase.
Availability of wine storage cabinets such as Eurocave and Transtherm is up, and the transforming of existing cellars into places to store wine, digging of new ones and air conditioning of specially designed rooms to store wine, are becoming a must for many middle- to high-end households.
A few restaurants and wine bars have invested in good storage facilities; however, I feel that most have not caught on to the idea that wine needs to be kept and served in the right conditions, the latter being the most important. And here I am not only talking about fine, foreign or expensive wines; even lesser, everyday wines need good storage facilities.
For example, I notice that Maltese wines, including the higher-end ones, are often kept in the worst conditions, defeating all the efforts made by Maltese vintners to provide quality wines. This is something local winemakers should look into.
Of course, there could be many excuses as to why good wine storage could be a problem, including space, logistics and deliveries. But I am sure that once the problem is recognised and understood, solutions can be found. Of course, the same applies for importers and wine producers, although in recent years, most have given a lot of attention to this subject, and I am sure many will be able to support and advise on how to deal with this problem.
You may ask… why all the fuss? Well, let me start by saying that all of this applies to prolonged exposure to bad storage, although the more extreme, the quicker the damage. I once forgot a bottle on the back seat of my car one summer evening and woke up the following morning to find that the cork had come out and wine spilled out.
But, in general, wine deteriorates over a period of time. Here are the main faults that could develop:
Heat damage will result in cooked wine. The wines will smell and taste of burnt sugar/caramel. They will also smell jammy, lose freshness and often lead to cork damage. This will result in oxidised wine. Red wine will lose brightness and white wine will brown.
Maltese wines are often kept in the worst conditions, defeating all the efforts made by Maltese vintners to provide quality wines
Too much exposure to light will also affect the colour of wine and result in loss of freshness.
Big and frequent fluctuations in temperature will mature the wines quicker, losing finesse and complexity along the way.
Low humidity will dry corks out and lead to oxidisation and/or dry cardboard/powdery smell and taste. There could also be problems with removing of the cork.
Too much humidity, especially if accompanied by dampness, will ruin labels and can lead to damp-smelling bottles.
On the same subject, but a slightly different magnitude, I have just returned from a yearly visit to Octavian Vaults near Bristol in the UK. This is a private wine storage facility situated on a World War II airfield with a huge underground facility with perfect conditions dug into the nearby hills originally built to store armaments and a number of mechanically-conditioned hangers.
During my years in wine, I have seen many important cellars and wine storage facilities in France, Italy and even here in Malta, but the most impressive to date is this place. Let me give you some figures: 10,000 clients from 39 countries, over six million bottles, specially designed forklifts and moving equipment, state-of-the-art audit and stocking trail, perfect conditions and €1.7 billion worth of wine.
I was like a child in a toyshop.
mike@michaeltabone.com