Christmas in Cuba is a very recent affair. In 1962, Cuba officially became an atheist nation, but the locals still continued to celebrate Christmas, mostly adhering to Spanish traditions as well as to American influences like Father Christmas. But then, in 1969, Fidel Castro outlawed Christmas because he decided it was interfering with the sugar harvest. It was only in 1997 that Christmas was restored to honor Pope John Paul II, who was visiting the island.

Since then, Christmas festivities in Cuba, especially in Havana, have picked up. On nochebuena – Christmas Eve – a large mass is held in Havana’s Revolution Square, against the aural backdrop of church bells ringing out across the city. Then on Christmas Day, large screens are set up outside Havana’s cathedral and people watch the Pope deliver his Christmas message. Gifts, which are delivered by the Three Wise Men, are exchanged on January 6.

Of course, in Havana, a party is never too far away, especially for Christmas and New Year, and music is everywhere. Cubans love to dance – even when they walk, it looks like they’re dancing. There are daily live concerts at La Casa de la Musica and musicians playing the Cuban guitar on every corner. For a dance spectacle that will be fondly stored forever in your memory vault, try the Gran Teatro de La Habana, home of the Ballet Nacional de Cuba.

If you’re not in the mood to party, you can always go for a stroll along the El Prado, which leads to the Malecon promenade – here, you can mix with the locals and do a spot of people-watching.

Alternatively, you can stay in your hotel in the company of a seriously good mojito and enjoy a quiet moment. With Havana’s old, colonial hotels looking like an architectural Miss Havisham, but in a good way, an overnight stay in the Cuban capital is an experience in itself. Some of the hotels are simply spectacular. Located in the beautiful Plaza de Armas, the Santa Isabel hotel is a grand 18th century palace that hugs a pretty central courtyard. The décor is old world, with plenty of dark leather and mahogany. And the cocktails are the best in the city.

A worthy alternative is the Conde de Villanueva in the Calle de los Mercaderes – what was once the mansion of the Count of Villanueva has been transformed into an intimate, lovely hotel. It also houses one of Havana’s best cigar shops.

In Havana, Christmas tastes of pork, apples, beans and banana. The traditional Christmas meal consists of roast pork, black beans served over rice, mashed plantain and cassava, followed by nougat or Cuban flan served with coffee.

Finish off your Christmas dinner with a freshly rolled cigar and, if you’re still able to move, a spot of salsa.