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Updated - The final journey

Updated - Adds new video

As the colourful fleet of buses makes way for more modern vehicles, Sarah Carabott joins Joseph Valletta, a bus driver for 55 years, on a journey through time.

Known as Ta’ Lazzru, Mr Valletta walks in pitch darkness towards Etienne Garage, Ta’ Bajadira, in Qormi at 4.45 a.m. Smartly dressed and ready for the long day ahead, he pulls open the heavy metal garage door, revealing the snout of one of Malta’s classic buses.

The 1956 Thames was initially built in wood but was restructured in metal some years later. It has been passed on from owner to owner and is now the property of Anthony Falzon from Qormi.

Mr Valletta, 73, hops on the bus and drives uphill through the deserted streets towards Naxxar, overlooking a sleeping Malta. The landscape, dimly lit by the very first streaks of grey sunrise, is dotted with bright orange lights.

The aged but clean bus weaves through narrow streets on its way to Għargħur to pick up the early birds on their way to work. It pulls up under a blue bus stage sign, in the shadow of a new Arriva sign that will guide commuters as from tomorrow.

Mr Valletta lifts up the seating bench adjacent to the dashboard and pulls out two placards bearing the number 5 to slide them in the bus-number frame behind the windscreen.

After informing the bus inspector on duty about his arrival, he gets back behind the wheel just as the soothing velvety colours of sunrise blanket the village. Mr Valletta loves driving.

At 12, he started out as a bus conductor. He got his driving licence at 18 and a special licence that would permit him to drive buses a few months later. Around 42 years ago he drove the bus, known as “Tax-Xejp”. He later got his own bus, which was passed on to one of his sons, and about seven years ago he started driving this same Tax-Xejp bus again.

Passengers on board are welcomed by Mr Valletta’s sweet nature, held to be one of the rarest characteristics on Maltese roads. He thanks every single person who dumps the 47c fare on the man’s small outstretched palm. When he’s lucky, he gets to keep the 3c change from the 50c coin as a tip.

Muttering the words “let’s start” as the church bells chime 5.30 a.m., Mr Valletta starts the engine.

Vegetables hawkers are mounting their stalls. Languid sun rays tickle the passengers awake as some of them start bellowing out the “news of the day”. The topic on today’s agenda is without doubt the mystifying “Arriva buses”.

The passengers get noisier as the day grows older. Small talk suddenly sparks off a loud debate about “l-Unjoni Ewropeja”, Prime Minister Lawrence Gonzi and his colleagues.

When the driver has to deviate from his ordinary route, which is closed for traffic, the passengers eagerly guide him through. Clearly, the driver has no say in this matter. He nods, amused.

“They don’t bother me,” he says, “but when I notice that things are heating up I ask them to calm down as this is not a band club.”

In between the moans and groans of commuters, Mr Valletta gives directions to a lost passenger and gives a free lift to the old lady who needs to catch a bus to Mater Dei Hospital from a bus stop further down the road.

The “żomm waħda Chalie” (hang on Charlie) and the “minuta Pawl!” (just a minute, Paul) are never missing as workers stumble up the steps out of breath and sweaty but relieved they did not miss the first bus of the day. Some annoyed passenger shots: “Ejja ħa mmorru Ġuż!” (Let’s get going, Joe).

As the passengers yawn their way to Valletta, the driver sits up straight, concentrating hard on the road ahead, which is being gradually swallowed up by cars.

After the return journey from Naxxar and his second cup of tea for the day, Mr Valletta sweeps the bus clean of any tickets thrown on the floor by careless passengers.

Under the present system, drivers usually get to drive the same route for the day but are assigned different daily routes. Although a bus driver’s day could last from 5 a.m. until 10 p.m., they work on alternate days.

Nonetheless, sometimes Mr Valletta has had to skip his days off, especially over the past weeks when the number of bus drivers thinned out as some joined Arriva.

“But I’m happy I could make the most out of the last few days. It had never dawned on me that the Maltese bus service would come to an end,” he adds, his gaze drifting over the red flag imprinted with a white Maltese cross flying proudly at the tip of the bus’ snout.

When the driver’s corner was once enclosed like a cabin, it had its own little shrine. Now, only a couple of holy pictures, accompanied by a Make Christ The Centre Of Your Life slogan are displayed on top of the windscreen.

Smiling, Mr Valletta says the bus is sometimes hired to escort people during weddings and he has no intention of retiring yet.

The day’s trip might be the last one the bus will make as a public transport vehicle but, starting soon, it will be taking groups of tourists around the bumpy Maltese roads.

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Mr James Galea

Jul 2nd 2011, 17:32

how very observant ot you. you should be in parlament asking such questions wow

Tonio Bone

Jul 2nd 2011, 17:47

Francesca, should 18 year olds be allowed to drive 250bhp plus cars? It is highly probably that this 73 year never even had an accident in his driving life. You can't really draw a line, now everyone is the same. On the roads you see persons cover all age groups that really should not be allowed to drive!

Mr G Mangion

Jul 2nd 2011, 18:08

Ms Francesca Abela

Agree 100%

Mrs Krystle Micallef

Jul 2nd 2011, 18:13

taf li l-arriva batet ghal dawn in-nies ukoll? basta andu l-ispecial?? jew ma jimpurtax issa?

C Seychell

Jul 2nd 2011, 18:40

I am sure he is a much better driver than most 18 year olds on the road!!

Mark Jones

Jul 2nd 2011, 20:15

Why should the guy not be driving a bus if he is fit and competent?
He probably drives far more responsibly than many of the aggressive lunatics on our roads.
Your coments are disgraceful, Ms Abela.

Michael Lloyd

Jul 2nd 2011, 22:18

As a mere foreign tourist, I have travelled with Mr Valletta several times in his beautifully-maintained bus 537. He is a very safe, competent professional driver, allowing himself the time to complete manoeuvres properly and handling the bus as if it were an extension of himself. Malta's bus drivers vary enormously and some rides are fast, some slow, some exciting, some a bit worrying, but Mr Valletta has never given me anything other than the best ride. To suggest that he is too old to do his job is insulting. He is an excellent driver and never gets flustered or annoyed with anyone, an example to some others.

He is not the only one, of course. Many complaints aimed at the drivers really and truly refer only to a small number. I have always enjoyed riding the old buses and Malta will not be the same without them.

Christian Sciberras

Jul 2nd 2011, 22:55

@all - So we should allow old people to drive huge carriages because 18 year olds should(n't?) drive "250bhp plua cars"?

Where's the reasoning in that? I don't even see any kind of comparison there.

Liam Kelly

Jul 2nd 2011, 23:58

Rather silly comment Ms Abela.

Mr Peter Korsten

Jul 3rd 2011, 11:18

Well, you cannot blame the Maltese for being European, but rest assured that there are quite a few things setting them apart from particularly northern Europe. Visit http://www.onlyinmalta.com/ for proof of that.

Andrea Portelli

Jul 2nd 2011, 13:45

I certainly wont miss them. About time this antiquated state got a bit of a facelift

Mr charles vella

Jul 2nd 2011, 14:10

Such busses couldn't be kept mate... They are not up to standard and unsafe for the roads... We're in the EU now! No longer a 3rd world country! They are History now... which will be forever cherished. It's simply a time to move on. We are living in a changing world, and i'm happy to be Maltese, as we are no longer the isolated island we once where. We are living in a beautiful country, most roads are being up to standard now adays, except for some odd ones, beautiful round abouts, perfect road signs, and up-to-date infrustructure... We must open our eyes and realize that our country is changing everyday into better.

Noeleen Grima

Jul 2nd 2011, 14:15

very few off them, will continue to operate. soo the pollution will decrease. I hope

James Camilleri

Jul 2nd 2011, 13:45

U ejja come on Mr Catania. Do not tell me that you are a regular commuter cause I will not believe you. Most of the drivers were not at all as they have been described. I was treated once with such hamallagni by ... wait not a driver but a doctor at the hospital!!! Shall we do away with Maltese doctors then.

Mrs Pauline Abela

Jul 2nd 2011, 13:01

Well James, that's why 'il-baqra tinbieh kollha!'. I understand the view of people wanting to go to work in comfort but there is also another side - those who come to Malta for holidays and love being on the old buses. I fall in that category and have never driven in Malta. On the other hand my husband doesn't share my enthusiasm and we occasionally agree to meet at our destination using alternative means. He in the car and me on the bus! Buses never worried me when I lived in Malta either. Believe it or not nor did the old Maltese 'deserta' chocolate bars which people often complained about. Everyone's different. What concerns me about these buses is the fact that they're air-conditioned. It might sound like a good idea at first but by 5pm in Summer, I would much rather be tossed about like a pea in a pan than have to contend with the collective whiff of humanity.

Franco Farrugia

Jul 2nd 2011, 14:35

F'dal-pajjiz, jekk taghmel xi haga, jikkritikawk ghax ghamiltha; jekk ma taghmel xejn, jikkritikawk ghax rieqed.

Mr John Bonnici

Jul 2nd 2011, 11:58

Well said !!!

Mr Joe Gatt

Jul 2nd 2011, 10:17

Joe Fenech

But a Big `THANK YOU` to Mr Valletta, at least, for his long years of faithful `Service`

Do you not realize that some deserve RECOGNITION for their sence of Duty at least.

How about the proverbial `Golden Watch` as a sign of ` RESPECT` at least.

Regretfully so much lacking in todays, mostly, if not purely commercial age.

Joe Fenech

Jul 2nd 2011, 10:55

Wasn't referring to Mr Valletta but to the service in general.

Mrs Krystle Micallef

Jul 2nd 2011, 18:14

xorta m'ghandux jintqal dan il-kliem jekk ahna poplu edukat

Mr R.E. Saliba

Jul 2nd 2011, 09:03

Fully agree with your comment about having the new buses coach-built along the design of the old buses. For starters the old 'long nose' buses were more aerodynamic. Secondly we are somehow forgetting how much of a tourist attraction these buses were.

I have written such words previously and banshees immediately commented back with such gems as 'away with the boneshakers' and 'on with progress'. Sadly blinkered and reminiscent of just eating fast-food because one's hungry without keeping an eye on the waistline. Such things should be thought of properly.

But I'm afraid all these words are useless Tonio because... let's face it.... Arriva would have spent too much to build custom buses for Malta. As a business, at the end of the day they don't really about Malta but about how deeply they can line their pockets.

Should the MTA have interevened? Of course! But we're too busy dressing up peeing statues and sponsoring soccer teams, enticing tourists to visit a Malta that is slowly loosing originality. Go figure.

Alistair Busuttil

Jul 2nd 2011, 09:26

they would have been just a replica not original

Joe Fenech

Jul 2nd 2011, 09:30

"We could have had a modern and technologically advanced bus with a retro look that would have preserved the flavour and a twist of heritage from the old buses which were a characteristic of these islands."

Yes, a London balck-cab approach could have been adopted. What is worrying is that ARRIVA has brought over COACHES not buses and that's not going to help. A bus has a front door to alight and middle door to exit.

Mr steve Micalled

Jul 2nd 2011, 09:54

love the idea retro buses would have been fantastic!! hope someone will at least try this!

Mr Joe Gatt

Jul 2nd 2011, 10:05

`There is a finely restored and preserved Malta bus doing runs in London, so I see no reason why we should not have some of them still plying the maltese roads to preserve some form of heritage.`

There you have it, rest sured, this bus in London must conform to the latest Euopean regulations, re emmisions, ect.
Let us not discard all that traditional, would one knock our Fortifications, just because they are old?

We could do the same here with some of these Busse and preserve part of our Heritage.

And be PROUD OF IT.
`

Mr Joe Gatt

Jul 2nd 2011, 10:21

Alistair Busuttil

Nothing wrong with that, is there?

The rebuilt German Cities, and many other examples to begin with.

K Perry

Jul 2nd 2011, 12:37

Fully agree with your comments too . part of the 'Malta Experience' was always a bus ride to somewhere on the island. Bendy busses!!! who allowed them to be foisted onto Malta? deemed as dangerous on Londons roads I wonder how they will fare in the Narrow congestion of Malta?
Please keep some of the old buses for those not in such a hurry to go to work but are visiting tourists.. perhaps with a set price for all passengers, not the 'visit and pay more than locals' system which surely goes against the EU all equal citizens claim.?
And Arriva? well when i said 'be careful what you wish for' regarding the new era i was howled down.. I hope that i am proved wrong, but some of us have had the Arriva experience and it wasnt all sweetness and light.
But to Mr Valletta and the other kind and respected drivers, a BIG thank you - you will remain in the holiday memories and pictures of more people than you realise. God bless.

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