As people move away from traditional entertainment hubs like Paceville, village bars are experiencing a revival. But the trend does not spell good news for residents.
It’s gone midnight in the sleepy town of Lija and the streets leading to the village core are devoid of life. So far, so typical of a Friday night in your average Maltese village.
But first appearances can be deceptive and, upon turning a specific corner, the scene changes drastically.
The change can be heard before it is seen – a loud ‘murmuring’ that, as it turns out, emanates from a sizeable group of people who are enjoying a drink and a smoke outside the doors of a particular village bar. Their chatter is punctuated by the grating noise of distorted bass that can be heard through the open entrance doors.
The effect is devastating to anyone whose home lies adjacent to the bar, as window panes and the old stonework react to the sudden blasts.
The bar is located bang in the middle of what is supposed to be one of the quietest residential areas of Malta. A description that ceases to apply every Friday and Saturday night from 8pm up till the early hours of the morning.
And it is a scene that repeats itself across an increasing number of residential localities and village cores, as scores of revellers descend on what were once quiet bars to let their hair down. Mosta, Gżira, Naxxar, Lija, Floriana, Dingli, Rabat and Qormi are only a few of the localities that boast a busy ‘nightlife’.
From band clubs to political clubs, they seem to have eagerly jumped on the latest entertainment cash cow, with some even going so far as to ‘rebrand’ with catchier names and flashy signage.
Under current legislation, any tourist establishment wishing to play amplified music requires a specific permit from the Malta Tourism Authority. Even then, if the music can be heard from outdoors, it must be stopped by 11pm.
However, band clubs and political party clubs are not caught under this regulation, as they are registered as ‘social clubs’ under subsidiary legislation that makes no reference to excessive noise or amplified music.
The same legislation does lay down that the club cannot cause annoyance to neighbours, under pain of possible closure. But, judging by the reports that keep coming in from various localities, it is clear there is no strict enforcement of this particular law.
The resurgence of village bars – and with it, the problem of noise pollution in residential areas – is a relatively recent phenomenon. Michael, a 38-year-old who somewhat sheepishly admits to being a regular at evenings that are known as a ‘każinata’, puts this popularity down to that holy trinity of a great night out – cheap drinks, free appetizers and relatively easy parking.
“Up till a couple of years ago, the trend was to go to a wine-bar for our regular outings. But that can be expensive and, let’s face it, it’s not the ideal scenario if you’re single,” he says.
You only go to Paceville if you’re a tourist or a teenager. Or if you’re into sex clubs
Bugibba, St Julian’s and Paceville hold few attractions for those who are after regular weekends out. “You only go to Paceville if you’re a tourist or a teenager. Or if you’re into sex clubs. And if you remove the special events and parties that take place at proper clubs, then there really is nowhere to go,” Michael continues.
Enter the popularity of każinati, which Michael and his friends – together with hosts of other Maltese – have been enjoying almost every weekend for about a year.
The surge in popularity is also reflected on social media; Facebook pages choc-a-bloc with events and activities, usually centreing around open bars and appetisers.
“The cheap drinks are the main attraction, I suppose. A round for six sets you back less than a tenner. Try doing that at a fancy bar in Buġibba.
However, it’s not just about cheap drinks.
“I think we stuck to these places because they offer a lively night out while being chill at the same time. The vibe is totally different to other lounge bars. Everyone seems to be friendlier, strangers will pick up a conversation and will do so without being creepy. And it’s only at każini that I have seen a 70-year-old grandpa dancing to Despacito,” he tells me with a grin.
But not everyone is as enthused with this new trend on the entertainment front. Residents hailing from various localities complain that every weekend it feels like they are “transported to Paceville”.
Annemarie (name has been changed), 57, is one such resident, her house lying a few metres away from a band club premises.
“Years ago, when I moved here with my family, it was your typical quiet village. As of recently, it’s become a bit of a nightmare. Every weekend I can feel the music vibrating through my house. And it goes on until very late, at least until past 1am, more often even later,” she says.
And it’s not just about the noise. Drunken people conversing “animatedly” in the street has become a common sight.
Annemarie says she has made “several” reports to the police but that these led nowhere.
One bar operator in her locality claimed he had never received any complaints from the police or the council. And, while admitting to playing music on the premises, he insisted that this could not be heard from outside.
Another problem is that the practice of leasing out the bar operation to a third party means the club’s committee is not always aware of what exactly is happening.
“I have never received any complaints but I’m not sure exactly what events the bar operator is holding,” the president of another club admitted when contacted. “I will certainly be following up on this matter, and carrying out spot checks over the weekend.”
John Fenech, from the Noise Abatement Society of Malta, shares residents’ concerns, adding that the society has received several complaints from various localities about the issue.
“Unfortunately, although there are regulations regarding music being played at particular outlets, it is difficult to make sure they are enforced,” he says.
The law lays down fines for those who are found to be in breach of their permits. However, a bar owner would easily make that amount back in an hour, “so there is no incentive to stay within the regulations”.
“These places are awarded a licence to operate provided they don’t violate the licensing conditions. But when they do, there is no suspension or withdrawal of the permit.”
And in case of repeated infringements, the only advice the police offer residents is to take the operator to court. “This involves hassle and expense, not to mention a highly uncertain outcome, so everyone gets away with it,” Mr Fenech points out.
Meantime, residents in various villages are trying to recover from their unwilling participation in what would be termed by Michael and his friends as “a heavy weekend”.