Having mined such rich territories as colour, deconstruction and artifice in her nine Chanel beauty collections so far, Lucia Pica considers texture for the autumn/winter 2018 collection.

Tapping the emotional depth and visual intensity offered by matte surfaces, the selection of eye and lip colours in Apotheosis, Le Mat de Chanel evokes a uniquely feminine sensibility – one of inner quietude, serenity and self-possession.

As always, Pica’s signature reds act as both counterpoint and provocation, more vivid than ever in their matte extremity.

“In autumn and winter, you’re more covered up, wearing more clothes perhaps. So you get to play with colour once again, to bring the face back into prominence,” Pica says.

The eyes

“With texture, you can really explore feelings. This matte is like an aura of colour that inspires a sophisticated mood in the wearer. It’s a little bit mysterious and it feels quite soothing to the viewer,” Pica adds.

Focusing on texture has led Pica to consider how in painting, matte pigments are used to trigger specific emotions. In Apotheosis, Le Mat de Chanel, the rich taupes, deep browns, light mauves and powerful blues of Les 4 Ombres reflect a sense of strength and contentment, while their velvety finish has a fine, watercolour-like effect.

The black, beige and gunmetal blue grey of the Stylo Ombre et Contour pens bring their own profundity. Additionally, with matte textures, technique always comes into play. The pens’ creamy formulations add definition and life – ideal for soft sculpting. Just apply powder shades to their cream bases for further degrees of intensity.

“The cream texture of the pens makes them more alive,” Pica says.

The lips

“Your features can be made stronger and more defined in autumn. Bold, super-extreme matte lips look entirely natural, for example,” Pica explains.

This sublime matte effect offers additional application methods as the Apotheosis collection builds. With Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur Mat, the practicality of a pen meets the innate glamour of lipstick. Jumbo-sized and retractable, the crayons’ six intense new shades are boosted by their light-absorbing, creamy texture, gliding on in a gesture as intuitive as signing one’s own signature. At the other end of the spectrum, the sheerest cover of all comes with the flourish of a wand as liquid Rouge Allure Ink melts into the lips, leaving a fresh, mauve-pink “stain”.

The face

“I like oppositions in makeup – looks that represent the multiple aspects of a woman. Matte applied to a glowy face creates a sense of depth,” Pica says.

The soft mauve of the Joues Contraste provides a surprising diversion from the collection’s otherwise sombre palette. The fresh pink warmth suggests a flush of natural emotion against the stronger, more constructed eye and lip looks.

The nails

“The opportunities for matte finishes are endless. In Apotheosis, Le Mat de Chanel, we even have matte nail varnishes,” Pica says.

The glamorous side of tranquillity is distilled into two new matte shades for the nails – a bold, enigmatic red and a rich burgundy. The arresting light-absorbing texture shrouds the nails in mystery, their surfaces guaranteed to captivate and intrigue.

“The matte colours of Le Vernis don’t reveal themselves straight away; they’ve a distorted quality, as if viewed through the filter of a Polaroid lens,” Pica adds.

This uncanny sensibility continues in the collection’s duo of matte shades. The elegant, lustrous finish yields a palette of red and burgundy.

Chanel is distributed by Alfred Gera & Sons Ltd.

(Content provided by Chanel)