As the ferry slides into Gozo’s small port of Mġarr, you are welcomed by the square stone buildings that line the harbourside, seemingly leaning against the rising hill. You could almost imagine you were arriving in the Holy Land.
Above, the spires and dome of Għajnsielem village stand tall, and on the picturesque Ta’ Passi hillside that runs down towards the sea, visitors in December – and until January 6 – will find a charming recreation of the humble town of Bethlehem as it was in the year of Jesus Christ’s birth.
Just a five-minute walk from the ferry – or visitors can choose to take an illuminated land train – the largest crib in Malta is spread over 20,000 square metres of fields and a rustic village. And, now in its tenth anniversary edition, each year this life-sized animated nativity display gets bigger and better.
Bethlehem was situated along an ancient caravan route through Judea and had long welcomed visitors from many places and cultures, and Gozo’s Għajnsielem is delighted to do the same. From today’s streets festooned with bright festive lights, visitors step back in time as they take a stroll down a country lane lined with golden stone. The road winds between small rock-strewn fields in which animals graze, leading to low-rise rural buildings with domes and arches. These are largely constructed from thousands of recycled wooden pallets bringing together 2,000 years of history with 21st century thinking about the importance of being eco-friendly.
“For generations here, crib-making has been a big thing at Christmas,” says Għajnsielem mayor Franco Ciangura.
“Every home in Gozo has a crib. Sometimes they take up the garage or a whole room in the house. Families start making them in early December and here in Għajnsielem we thought we’d really go to town. Jesus was born in a stable in an ordinary village while life went on as normal and that’s what we’re showing here, mixed with old Maltese culture and traditions. It’s very special.”
Deliberately simple in style to hark back to times gone by, the streets are remarkably atmospheric as volunteers in authentic costumes populate the houses and shops. More than 150 local people are involved, from the holy babe in a cradle on a carpet of straw to grandparents and village elders. Since the crib’s inception, well over 130 babies have participated as the newborn in the grotto’s manger, their parents standing by as Mary and Joseph, and already nine are volunteered for this year.
Whole families dress up and participate, reminding us all of the value of family at Christmas, and some of the very first babies who are now 10 years old still join in as shepherd boys and girls, whose Judean family can be visited in a cave house where they will offer you a taste from their cooking pot.
In Hebrew, the name Bethlehem is derived from the phrase ‘house of bread’ and, as well as farmers in old-fashioned costume, you’ll also find a real artisan baker baking steaming loaves. Alternatively visit the homes of a blacksmith or a genuine carpenter who will chat about how his lathe works. There are hands-on activities for all ages and displays of old tools and traditions from wheat threshing and mosaics, to wool spinning and lace-making whilst market-traders offer fruit and vegetables in gleaming colours.
Visitors and locals alike enjoy hot pastizzi and mulled wine from the tavern while traditional music plays, or linger in the open with coffee and cake absorbing the atmosphere and watching the animals: there are dozens of goats, sheep, cows, chickens, ducks, geese, guinea pigs, ponies, horses, a donkey of course and – occasionally – an emu.
With a local twist, Għajnsielem f’Bethlehem even includes a small fishing port, river and a freshwater lake where old-fashioned boat rides are available, providing colourful reflections in the water for the viewers on a 30-metre suspended rope bridge. Within the village visitors can also watch Pawlu Muscat, the last artist on the island who still carves out crib figurines out of clay in the traditional Maltese style.
Each year, Mr Ciangura oversees the addition of new elements to charm and entertain visitors, and for 2018, visitors can settle into a Roman amphitheatre where, during the last weekend before Christmas, gladiators from a Maltese Roman-era re-enactment group and a team of soldiers from Romania will be seen locked in combat.
And for an overnight experience that is truly out of the ordinary, you can book back-to-basics berths in the wooden four-roomed Bethlehem inn which boasts the sparse and rustic décor of the time and in which the mod cons are a primitive fireplace and a jug of water. While visitors relax amongst the urns and oil lamps, a donkey can be heard braying outside.
The grand finale is the adoration of the Magi, who arrive on January 4 from Bethlehem with which Għajnsielem has a friendship agreement – this will soon be a formal twinning partnership. Carrying gold, frankincense and myrrh, they will wind their way on horseback through Mosta, St Paul’s Bay and Mellieħa stopping in each of these towns to greet the people. The ferry is the final leg of their journey, as ancient history collides with modern logistics for the Epiphany. The three wise men finally set foot on Gozo on Sunday, January 6, and follow the star to the Son of God’s feet in Għajnsielem.
Although the nativity village is always open so that visitors can walk through, visit www.ghajnsielem.com/bethlehem to see the dates and times during which the village is animated. Entrance is free. Donations for both the Community Chest Fund Foundation and charitable causes are welcomed.
This article first appeared in Christmas Times magazine.