The next designer I chose to focus on for our spotlight series is couturier and curator Luke Azzopardi. Known for his whimsical gowns and his visually stimulating shows, Azzopardi’s latest project is his curatorship of the exhibition The Vocabulary of Style: An Exhibition of Fashion in Malta since 1917. This is what a few hectic minutes with him looked like:

Describe your creative process.

My creative process consists of lots of research. What I tend to do is collect visual ‘tokens’ of sorts and try to create new narratives and visuals by combining everything. I do feel like everything has already been said so my work is often either a reflection of itself or an emotional catharsis.

How do you deal with creative blocks?

I’m not really sure, I do tend to feel better once I’ve drunk some wine though.

Who is the designer you admire and identify with most?

I identify most with John Galliano because his work exudes drama and theatricality. I absolutely adore the idea of merging clothing with drama and use that in my work as much as possible.

Who are people that inspire you most?

My friends mainly. I feel like gowns are meant to tell stories, so I’m very often inspired by my friends, models and clients: together we are able to create new stories and reimagine others.

Favourite dress of all time.

My favourite dress from my own body of work has to be the one I made for Miriam Cauchi. I made her a dress in a cardinal pink taffeta that I was completely in love with. My favourite dress by another designer is the midnight blue ball gown Eva Green wore for the Dior Pure Poison advert a few years ago.

I do feel like everything has already been said

If you could be born in a different era, which would it be and why?

It would have to be High Victorian England for the dramatic clothes and accessories.

What’s the last book you read?

Postmodernism: Style and Subversion

Tell me about a project you’ve completed that has made you the most proud.

I think the project which has made me proudest is the one I completed for the Manoel Theatre Opera Season of 2016. I designed all the costumes for Orphée et Eurydice.

Why should people visit a Vocabulary of Style?

People should visit this exhibition because it’s a retrospective of Maltese fashion. It’s the first exhibition of its kind that does away with costumes to focus solely on fashion as we know it today. Not only do we look at the birth and development of fashion in its contemporary sense, but we also see the birth of couture and its impact on Maltese clothing.

The Vocabulary of Style: An Exhibition of Fashion in Malta since 1917 is being held at the House of Representatives in Valletta until July 5. Admission is free.

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