The London Fashion Week collections for next summer are proving to be very interesting - there is less emphasis about everything being all about floral patterns and bohemian influence and far more focus on creating structure and good tailoring.
There also seems to be a linen revival going on and there are also far less bright colours than I expected. A great many interesting designers present works throughout fashion week and here are another three memorable collections.
Paul Costelloe
The catwalk presentation of his Spring/Summer collection was titled “The Rejuvenation of Linen”. Linen is an important fabric for next season and has been used in many collections.
There were linen coats, linen long dresses, not just in the form of simple flowing designs - these pieces are ultra sharp with wide big pockets, varied lengths, and interesting cuts.
A sand-coloured hue was the main colour for the linen pieces. Besides his linen pieces, he also presented some beautiful metallic pieces using PVC and cotton , some ultra feminine dresses with embellishments such as huge bows, high necklines and exposed shoulders.
A very strong collection from this talented designer.
Roberts Wood
The designer presented his collection in the form of a static presentation whereby the models stood and let us absorb the collection.
It is quite an avant-garde collection. The mood was almost eerie, that feeling of being lost in some kind of mythical world, the palette was mainly monochrome and the designs ranged from minimal to full out ruffled large pieces. The tailoring is beautiful and a lot of attention to details was given.
Phoebe English
She presented seven different characters, 7different experiences - The Loosing Mourner, The Firing Archer, The Weeping Water Bearer, The Lying Smuggler, The Questioning Enquirer, The Shouting Chanter and The Waiting Strangler.
It almost felt as though I was watching some mental asylum patients, such was the model’s focus and utter absorption in what they were doing. The eerie feeling of being privy to a reality that is private and personal was definitely felt. We walked into these people’s world, we were intruders.
The clothes are as usual brilliant. There was a sense of airiness and delicateness to her pieces which was further enhanced by piles of paper on set - almost as if the clothes are made out of this same paper. Phoebe English has always been a fan of deconstructed clothing and here she brings together certain techniques like chunky pleating, knotting of different fabrics, asymmetrical strapping. The end result is something truly original and great.
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