Confused as regards which is the best sunscreen for you? Wondering which ones might be harmful? Medical student Maria Bonnici gives some advice.

The importance of wearing sunscreen has increased in tandem with the rising rate of patients diagnosed with skin cancer. In contrast with other cancers, which are mostly on the decrease, skin cancer (especially melanoma) has tripled since the 1970s. Most experts attribute this epidemic to sun overexposure, especially during the summer months.

UV radiation is part of the electromagnetic spectrum (light) that is emitted from the sun and which reaches the earth. This is invisible to the naked eye. It was once thought that only UVB was of concern but research has shown that we need to protect our skin from both UVB and UVA.

Both UVB and UVA penetrate earth’s atmosphere, making them responsible not only for the increased risk of skin cancer, but also for premature skin ageing (wrinkling and pigmentation) and eye damage like cataracts.

They also suppress the immune system, reducing the ability to fight off these and other maladies. An example of this is the intermittent and recurrent eruption of cold sores due to sunlight exposure.

Most of us are exposed to large amounts of UVA rays throughout our lifetime. Even though they are less intense than UVB rays, they are 50 times more common and can penetrate clouds and glass.

UVA is present with relatively equal intensity during all daylight hours, even during the cold winter months. UVA penetrates the skin deeper than UVB and is responsible for most skin ageing and wrinkling. It also contributes and may initiate skin cancer.

UVB is the primary cause of skin reddening and sunburn as it damages the skin’s most superficial layers. It plays a key role in the development of skin cancers and also contributes to skin ageing. Tanning machines, such as sunbeds, also radiate UVA and UVB.

In the past, a sunscreen’s efficacy was measured solely by its Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF indicates how long it will take for UVB rays to redden the skin when using a sunscreen when compared to how long skin would redden without a sunscreen.

Now that research has shown that both UVA and UVB are harmful to our skin, we need to protect ourselves against both kinds of radiation, so SPF is not the only factor to consider.

To protect your skin against cancer, it is important to apply sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher, and to look for phrases such as ‘broad-spectrum’, ‘full-spectrum’ or ‘UVA/UVB protection’.

Most dermatologists recommend an SPF of at least 30.

The best sunscreens are made with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as they provide strong sun protection with the least health concerns.

Titanium dioxide, when compared with zinc oxide, gives less protection against UVA, but it is still better than most other active ingredients.

Years ago, zinc oxide sunscreens left a white and chalky colour when applied, but nowadays products are mostly made of zinc oxide nanoparticles to formulate lotions with less white tint. Manufacturers must strike a balance in the shape and size of particles of active ingredients. The smaller the particles, the greater the transparency, but the larger the particles, the more protection against UVA radiation.

Some studies indicate that nanoparticles can harm the body, but researchers found that less than 0.01 per cent of zinc oxide from any particle size enters the bloodstream. This issue is only of concern if sunscreen sprays are used and inhalation occurs because these particles can act as carcinogens if inhaled.

The right product for you

• Choose broad-spectrum sunscreens.

• Choose water-resistant sunscreens.

• Check the expiry date of the sunscreen.

• Be cautious with spray sunscreens as they may pose serious inhalation risks.

• Go for an oil-free, non-comedogenic sunscreen if you suffer from acne.

• Don’t choose products with very high SPFs because despite protecting the skin from reddening (against UVB), they do not protect against UVA. SPFs higher than 50+ should be avoided.

• Make sure the product does not contain oxybenzone. This is commonly used in sunscreens but it penetrates the skin and acts like oestrogen (hormone) in the body. It can also trigger allergic reactions.

• Make sure the product does not contain retinyl palmitate (vitamin A). Vitamin A is marketed as an anti-ageing product and it is useful only when used as a night cream. Avoid using it during the day as it may speed up development of skin tumours and lesions.

• Do not use tanning oils as the levels of sun protection present in these products are never enough.

• Do not use sunscreen towelettes or powders as you might inhale loose powder.

• Do not use a combined sunscreen and bug repellent.

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