Autumn in new york

New York catwalks showcase clean look, return to basics

New York catwalks showcase clean look, return to basics

All that glitters is not gold. It's rhinestones and lamè that will shine in autumn fashions. Sparkle turned up on evening gowns and cocktail dresses as well as the most unlikely chunky sweaters, trench coats and loafers at the New York fashion show extravaganza where hundreds of designers unveiled their autumn looks last week.

From jackets to trousers and skirts, looks of lamè, gilded leather and woven metallic fabrics filled the catwalks, and even the most casual piece was adorned with sequins, patent leather appliques and rhinestones.

Fashion experts, many of whom see design as a reflection of the public mood, say the bright looks may strike a chord with consumers craving richness and comfort.

Designers are all on the same vibe, upgrading with details and shine and fabric. It's elegant without being uptight. It's going to appeal to a lot more people.

Shine took centrestage for Nicole Miller, Diane von Furstenberg and Michael Kors. Nanette Lepore adorned sweaters with sequins and Jason Wu made a trench coat of silvery metal.

Jackets had swinging silhouettes with bell-shaped or three-quarter length sleeves.

Hemlines were above the knee, by a little or a lot. Hems often were loosely folded under, nipped or cinched, as they were by Alexandre Herchcovitch, Tracy Reese and Twinkle.

Luca Luca wove silver and gold threads through a gray cashmere jacket and hung huge rhinestones on a dress of silk and Lurex, a fabric of woven metallic threads.

"The biggest trend is the use of Lurex and shine," Aguiar said.

Luxurious fabrics were centrestage at Atil Kutoglu, who showcased a draped dress of crushed metallic burgundy leather. Douglas Hannant designed with metallic tweed.

The same sense of richness turned up in colours that were, by and large, gold, silver and pewter and neutrals dubbed cognac, champagne and caviar.

Jewel tones dominated at Bruce as well as at Chaiken, where cashmere dresses were amethyst, onyx, emerald and ruby, and at Naeem Khan, who used sapphire, topaz and garnet.

Accents sparkled as well. Models at Carolina Herrera wore opaque hosiery sprinkled with sequins. Akiko Ogawa's models, in foil tunics, wore sparkling pewter boots and loafers and at Abaete, models wore patent leather headbands.

With sparkle nearly everywhere, fashion can no longer be defined along lines of night and day, formal and casual. Things are not relegated to categories or to specific times of day or specific places to wear them. The word "appropriate" is not really appropriate anymore.

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