One chapter has closed and another is beginning at Valletta's 'institution' of a restaurant, Rubino, in Old Bakery Street. But the recipe book remains fundamentally the same.

Rubino, established as a confectionary in 1906, recently changed hands - after over a decade with Julian Sammut at its helm.

But according to the former owner, today Rubino belongs to the city and not to who is running it for a period of time. And its future is guaranteed if it not only offers good food, but if it is also a "haven for hospitality".

"Whoever operates the place is almost a caretaker, and I felt morally obliged to ensure that its traditions were upheld and to find someone who can do that as I did..."

Mr Sammut admitted that it took him a while to find the right candidate to step into his shoes. But he eventually did: Michael and Karl Diacono, renowned restaurateurs in their own right. They may be the new owners, but they are by no means newcomers to the scene, also owning Giuseppi in Mellieħa. The brothers therefore fitted the bill.

And according to Mr Sammut, that bill requires passion for food and hospitality, as well as getting on well with nice people, and sometimes not-so-nice people, who go there.

Not one to mince his words, Mr Sammut said his way of dealing with awkward or pompous people was to point to a sign on the wall advising that it is nice to be important, but more important to be nice.

Having said that, not everyone fell into that category, and Mr Sammut claims that the most enjoyable aspect of the job was meeting people of different nationalities and walks of life.

Mr Sammut was responsible for converting Rubino into a restaurant from a confectionery, while retaining the renowned and much-sought-after cassata siciliana. And the Diacono brothers intend to uphold that tradition. But it's not just the ricotta cake that is staying on. So is the quaint shop front that is protected, as well as Rubino's former staff.

Michael Diacono, who has been in the business for 22 years said: "Julian was part of the furniture and fittings, so we feel it is important to follow in his footsteps. He is not an easy act to follow, but everyone has their own style."

As to why he decided to hang up his apron, Mr Sammut maintains that "the catering business ties you down; 10 years is a long time and I reached a stage in my life where I wanted to be free to travel more."

The former restaurateur is looking into developing new, food-related activities - but not a restaurant, he stresses. He has no regrets: "I never look back in life. I wanted to do it; I did it; I put a lot into it; and I got a lot back," he says.

"But," he adds, "as the saying goes, you can't please them all." Among these "all" were a former Italian Prime Minister Lamberto Dini, veteran actor Peter O'Toole and Oscar-winning director Ridley Scott.

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