The faded “No Climbing” signs are no match for the tourists jostling to capture that perfect shot of the sun setting over the temple of Angkor Wat, Cambodia’s most famous attraction.

The view is stunning but the chaotic scene at Phnom Bakheng, also known as the Sunset Temple, is not exactly relaxing and it can be a struggle to even get a picture with no strangers in it.

Visitors to Angkor National Park topped 1.15 million in 2010, up 25 per cent on the year before. And at tourist spots across the region it’s a similar story.

At Angkor Wat, the most impressive of the park’s many temples, tourists are largely free to wander around the 12th century complex, ignoring one-way signs and clambering over fallen stones. Many lean against the ancient walls, while others trace delicate bas reliefs with their fingers.

“You start to notice a little bit of wear and tear and you’re not sure if it’s from centuries of use or if it’s from lots of tourists,” said Rona Soranno, 36, from California, after completing a tour of the temple’s inner courtyard.

According to the Global Heritage Fund, a US-based non-profit organisation that works to protect heritage sites in developing countries, “Angkor is highly endangered from this lack of control.”

“These ruins are 600-800 years old and need to be protected from tourism using standard routes, coverings, walkways and enforcement. This is not rocket science,” said the group’s executive director, Jeff Morgan.The Apsara Authority, which oversees Angkor’s upkeep, says it has taken steps to minimise harm to the buildings by roping off the most fragile structures, employing more than 270 tourist guards and diverting people away from the most crowded sites.

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