Most tourists visiting Cyprus go there for the sun and sea, but there is another appealing side to the island, the woodlands and the quaint little villages nestled in the mountains. Cyprus is only just over two hours away by air and, contrary to what many may think, it is not exactly similar to Malta, as Victor Aquilina found out on a recent visit.
Malta and Cyprus are often lumped together as if they are similar. They are not. Of course, once you’re on the island, you would come across a number of things that remind you of home, such as, for example, certain aspects of village life, but the country is different to Malta, which is what makes it interesting considering that it is only just over two hours away by air.
Like Malta, Cyprus is a former British colony, and was also a strategic link in Britain’s possessions in the Mediterranean. Today, both are members of the European Union and both are in the eurozone. Other than Britain’s two sovereign base areas, there is little away from the main cities that recall the colonial period. Unlike a number of Maltese, Cypriots do not switch languages in ordinary conversation, preferring to stick to their own. Even so, although Cyprus, like Malta, is an independent country, Greek flags fly together with that of Cyprus in many places, giving the clearest possible statement of where their heart lies.
The climate may be the same, but the topography is quite varied. Driving out of Limassol into the country, the first impression is that the landscape is not very dissimilar, hilly with stretches of rugged rocks, tufts of green here and there, but otherwise quite dull. But as you move further inland, the landscape changes rather dramatically, and you come across very green stretches in undulations that make you think you’re somewhere in Austria or northern Italy rather than in the eastern Mediterranean.
It is this strange juxtaposition of quite contrasting landscapes that make the topography so interesting and, in a way, intriguing. And yes, you’ll find most of the common wild plants we have here too, though I thought the cape sorrel (ħaxixa ingliża, or qarsu, as we called it when we were young) grows more profusely here than in the parts I have been to. The predominant colour is yellow, with swathes of the country covered in daises, often graced by the sword lily, Naples garlic, wild mustard, and the very delicate pink of the spring cyclamen. All this combine to provide a perfect setting for country walks, or cycling.
It is no wonder Cyprus is going all out to promote agrotourism. There is an endless string of lovely old villages where you can stay in traditional country houses. These take you well back in time, even more so than in many villages in Malta. The best way to see the rural part of Cyprus is by car, which reminds me of another big difference between Malta and Cyprus. Malta is only 122 square miles and its population is of just under half a million, whereas Cyprus is 3,571 square miles and its population is only 867,600, which means that, contrary to Malta, it is underpopulated.
It also means that driving in the country is a pleasure as you do not come across heavy traffic. Driving experts, however, give this tip: if you’re well out in the country and very far away from the place where you’re staying, make sure to start the journey back home early so that you make it in time before it gets dark. Otherwise, the country is quite safe.
Before you start out on your trip inland, stop at Kourion, an archaeological complex of baths and rooms with beautiful fifth century mosaic floors. Standing at the top of a Greco-Roman theatre, you can see in a haze in the background the Akrotiri base jutting out into the sea. On the main road from Paphos, you’ll come across, along the coastline, Petra tou Romiou (the Rock of the Greek), the place where, according to tradition, Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty, is supposed to have been born from the sea. She was escorted ashore on a shell by the soft breezes, as shown in the Botticelli painting, The Birth of Venus. Quite naturally, once you’ve seen this, you would want to see also the Baths of Aphrodite in the Akamas, between Polis and Cape Anaouti. According to mythology, it is the place where the goddess used to bathe and where she is supposed to have met her lover, Adonis.
On the way to the baths, there are a number of interesting villages, such as Miliou, particularly known for its therapeutic sulphur springs. One landmark there is the restored monastery of Agii Anargyri, which is now being used as a spa hotel. The monastery was founded by two brothers who used to care for the sick and dying without taking any payment for it. It is quite a tranquil place. Only 60 people live in Miliou.
Most people in Cyprus make you feel welcome wherever you meet them. One who goes out of his way to make your visit to his village both pleasant and interesting is Elias Lambides, the mayor of Steni, which is situated just out of Polis. Elias has both character and charm. He is bubbly and eager to tell his story.
Years ago he set about working on his dream of preserving the memory of his country’s old village life. Today, he runs a fully-fledged museum, regarded as one of the best in the country.
“Sometimes, I wake up in the middle of the night, switch on the lights and say, how could I have possibly done all this on my own?” He did. His place, part of a new culture centre, is crammed with all sorts of things, from old agricultural implements to kitchen utensils and village costumes. And he is still collecting: “People keep giving me things all the time.”
Elias has a heart of gold: once the visit to his museum is over, he lays the table for you to share a midday meal with him on the wonderful terrace outside. And, as you would expect, it is meze that he prepares for you – a delicious selection of local dishes and dips, as well as haloumi, olives and wine. Elias, also called the fox for his relentless campaign to save the animal, is proud of the oranges he grows: he has over 500 orange trees on his land. The olives were brought to the table by his friend, who has some 40 olive trees.
But it is time to move on, to see the mouflon, the wild sheep, in the heart of the Paphos forest, considered as the most beautiful pine forest of the island. What makes Cyprus vastly different to Malta is its mountain range, Troodos, with its highest point, Mount Olympus, reaching up to 1,952 metres. It stretches across most of the western side of the country and is home to quite a number of villages, churches, and Byzantine monasteries.
One of the most striking of the monasteries is Kykkos, founded in 1100 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is also one of the richest. Archbishop Makarios served as a novice at Kykkos and, at his wish, is buried at a scenic location some three kilometres west of the monastery. One of the treasures at the monastery is an icon attributed to St Luke, but you are not allowed to see it. It is covered in silver gilt. The monastery also has a priceless collection of icons, consecrated vessels, and manuscripts.
It is a most interesting place, but since time is short it is the forest that calls you back. Deep in the heart of the woodland is a delightful hotel, one that has apparently appealed to quite a number of Maltese over the years. Three of the most well known who stayed there are Dom Mintoff, Anton Buttigieg, and Guido de Marco, who in his message in the visitors’ book wrote that he found it one of the most beautiful settings in the world. Mr Mintoff did not say much, but Prof. de Marco was outdone, in inspiration, by Dr Buttigieg, who even wrote a poem, The Winds and the Birds. Read it. Has it ever been published?
Life in a village square is not very much unlike that in old Maltese villages, perhaps a little quieter and the scene somewhat more rustic. Down at Kalavasos, for example, not far from the church, young men were playing cards in the corner of a bar choked with cigarette smoke, as others were watching a Barclays Premier League game. There was a public meeting in a hall nearby, and tourists sat in the sun outside the bar drinking beer – a colourful setting. It is the best way to get a feel of the place.
But to get the best flavour of the country you have to stay in one of the converted houses, even if for just a couple of days. Wake up early one day, just to see how the place comes back to life – an interesting experience anywhere, but particularly in very small places.
• Mr Aquilina travelled to Cyprus courtesy of Emirates.
Emirates Airline flies between Malta and Cyprus daily. More details may be obtained by phone on 2557 7255 or online: www.emirates.com/mt