An excellent way of using up cooked salmon, this is better not made in a food processor, which turns it into salmon paste. I prefer the slightly uneven texture achieved when making it by hand. Use equal quantities of softened unsalted butter and cooked salmon, or slightly more fish, depending on your taste.

Season the fish lightly and pull it apart with two forks until you have a pile of shreds. Either clarified or very soft butter can be used. Stir it into the salmon until well mixed. Season the fish to taste, adding mace or nutmeg if liked and pot in a jar or ramekins.

Top with clarified butter if planning to keep it for a few days in the refrigerator. Cooked, undyed smoked haddock or kipper is very good prepared in the same way.

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