Some 30 years ago, the stretch of land from Cancun, Mexico, southwards towards the ancient ruins of Tulum was described by guidebooks as not having much to offer to tourists. The only visitors that made it there were unwelcome – tropical storms and hurricanes such as Stan, Emily and Wilma.
However, Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula has experienced a rapid development and nowadays, the serpentine coastline of the Mayan Riviera is the perfect setting for the holiday of a lifetime.
The plan for my holiday in the Yucatan peninsula was to have no plan. I had not been for a two-week vacation for too long and was looking forward to a well-deserved break. So I got down to booking my long-haul flights – I decided to save on the flights by booking economy and then splurge on the accommodation. After some homework, I decided to book an all-inclusive resort and spa in Tulum that promised me unlimited luxury.
After two long months of dieting and exercising to look half decent (though still very white) in my new bikini, the day finally came to fly to Cancun. Some 17 hours, too many airport transfers, body scans and so many coffees later (my seat in economy was so uncomfortable I couldn’t doze off) I landed in Cancun airport. Luckily, the taxi which I had booked prior to my trip was waiting for me. Fernando, my taxi driver, informed me that it would take us around 90 minutes to get to the hotel, which meant I could finally get some rest in the backseat.
The next day I got a chance to tour the hotel grounds and gladly confirmed that luxury and excellent service were oozing from its every little corner. Though the entertainment offered was enticing, I chose to spend my first days doing nothing but relax under the palm trees on the hotel’s private beach, watch the pelicans and sip my piña colada. The Riviera Maya forms part of the Mesoamerican barrier reef, home to hundreds of species of molluscs and fish and more than 50 species of stony coral. Snorkelling is a must here – there’s truly another world down there – it feels so soothing to be rocked gently by the waves as your eyes follow the life beneath the surface.
Some three kilometres from the hotel was a cenote, a river that had carved its way through a mangrove on its way to the sea. Diving in the clear waterhole was an incredible experience – the temperature of the water was slightly warmer than that of the sea due to the mix of fresh water on the surface and seawater at the bottom. The Mayas considered cenotes to be sacred and believed that they were the entrance to the underworld.
There are many other ways to relax here. Early one morning, just as the sun was rising, I joined a yoga group for a spot of meditation on the beach. Another time I went for an unhurried stroll on the bleached white sands – I hardly met a soul and it was like I was the first woman on earth.
A 20-minute drive took me to the Tulum ruins. Although there are other ruins in the Yucatan peninsula, Tulum is the only Mayan city built on a coast and one of the few protected by a wall – this explains why this place, formerly called Zama, was renamed Tulum, which means “wall.” In its heyday, Tulum served as a major seaport, trading mainly in turquoise and jade. Nothing remains of the ancient wooden houses but visitors can still admire the city’s main square and some temples. However, the greatest attraction is the beautiful beach dotted with ruins.
After walking down the wooden staircase for a dip in the turquoise waters, I made my way to Playa Paraiso, a long stretch of white sand and palm trees that is reputed to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Following a very nice lunch of nachos, guacamole and grilled fish, I took a cab to the city centre – a long, main road full of bars busy with students on gap years and hangers on.
With my holiday nearing its end I decided it was time for some action. At the Xcaret adventure park, I swam with dolphins, turtles, stingrays and sharks. The eco archaeological park also offers various cultural shows which culminate in the evening’s spectacular show.
I could not leave Mexico without visiting Cancun, a tourist spot that offers a myriad of entertainment possibilities from shopping and dining to clubbing. I thought it looked like a cross between Paceville, Ibiza and Las Vegas. I was there during spring break so it was full of American students who were there to have a wild time. I had the best time ever at the Coco Bongo, a club that offers 25 live entertainment shows a night.
Two weeks flew by fast and soon it was time for me to pack my bags and buy some tequila to take a taste of Mexico back home with me. As the plane soared above Cancun’s lagoon I promised myself that I would be back.