Aroma Mediterania, almost certainly China’s only Maltese restaurant, has not only proven to be a complete success only a year after opening, but is firm proof that local culinary traditions travel well – even to the most challenging markets in the world.
Owner Carmelo Vassallo has reason to celebrate after having accomplished the same feat he had always admired the Chinese for – taking their cuisine to other peoples, making it popular, and remaining as true to themselves as they could in other cultures.
Mr Vassallo, an entrepreneur operating a handful of ventures, including a soft furnishings firm, had travelled to China for business on numerous occasions when he began to toy with the idea of opening a Maltese restaurant. His dream partly stemmed from his craving for Maltese food so far away from home.
Back in Malta, he discussed his plans with his friend Martin Charles Buttigieg, an experienced chef, and his eventual business partner Yi Liu, at the time studying at the University of Malta. They were enthralled with it, and set about identifying property for lease through a business network.
Aroma Mediterania opened on the Jian She Road, a busy throroughfare in Urumqi, in November 2009, after two years of hard work. Urumqi, the capital of Xinjiang province, is a resource-rich region in northwestern China, close to the Kazakhstan border, a three-and-a-half-hour flight from Beijing.
“Urumqi is the world’s furthest city from the sea and it is fitting to bring the cuisine of an island to its population,” Mr Vassallo told The Sunday Times. “We even joke with the patrons that the word ‘Mediterranean’ in Mandarin symbolises Malta.”
Broken down, Mediterreanean translates to Di (place), Zhong (centre), and Hai (sea). The ‘Mediterania’ in the restaurant’s name has been intentionally misspelt as a way to simplify Chinese to make it easier to pronounce.
“The locals and the numerous expatriates who are based in Urumqi have been incredibly loyal to Aroma Mediterania,” Mr Vassallo continued. “Yes, I can say it has been a huge success. It is the area’s largest restaurant serving Western cuisine and has fed the curiosity of the inhabitants.”
Located on the second floor of a corner block, Aroma Mediterania boasts 200 covers plus a terrace bar. The restaurant bears replica traditional wooden beams, limestone archways, and reproduction furniture typically found in Maltese village restaurants.
Its walls are lined with Malta Tourism Authority prints of scenes from Malta and Gozo and reproductions of work by artist Frans Galea, whom Mr Vassallo describes as another loyal supporter of the project. A flat screen TV constantly shows footage of Maltese sights.
Behind the scenes, a 100-square-metre kitchen boasts a large stone oven, designed by Mr Vassallo, a mechanical engineer, which can be powered by electricity, gas or wood, for baking traditional crusty bread and pizza.
Mr Vassallo described the patrons as diverse: they included English language students attending any of the several schools in the area, foreign students learning Chinese at the local universities, and tourists.
Chinese patrons, who mostly opt to use knives and forks, are often repeat visitors or those who dine there on recommendation.
Mr Vassallo said they had taken to the menu, which included soups, salads, pasta and risottos, stone-baked pizza, and traditional dishes like rabbit, a huge favourite.
Mr Vassallo said drawing up the menu was a challenge in itself: catering Western food to a Chinese audience required significant compromise. Chef Buttigieg, who has moved to China permanently to head the full-time staff complement of 10, applied his expertise to design a menu that would carefully tantalise Chinese taste buds by serving authentic Mediterranean flavours.
Mr Vassallo credited John Zerafa, a consultant on Chinese business practices and culture, for his part in ensuring the restaurant’s success. Entrepreneurs seeking to do business in this part of the world will find that nowhere are cultural differences more pronounced, and a knowledge of social graces and a basic understanding of the language are essential for any commercial relationship to get off the ground.
Mr Zerafa, who divides his time between Malta and China, explained how food is central to Chinese culture, and business deals were more likely to be concluded at table than in the boardroom.
“In reality, Aroma Mediterania is far more than a restaurant – it is a business with a social aspect,” Mr Zerafa added. “As a business it deals in a product that is fundamental to the local culture – the Chinese give meals huge importance, whether they are shared with family, friends, or business associates. They are a pivotal part of the daily routine. That was one reason it was important to get it right.
“The restaurant also serves to promote the Maltese islands, our language, our heritage, our food. The patrons include professionals, families, young couples who are keen to learn more – and to speak English.”
Mr Vassallo, who spent Christmas with his family in Malta, said Aroma Mediterania served a traditional turkey dinner yesterday and staff expected to turn each table over three times throughout the day.
Aroma Mediterania, Mr Vassallo pointed out, is the pilot project in a wider plan. In the new year, Mr Vassallo, Ms Yi, and Chef Buttigieg, will seek to identify another corner of China to serve a taste of Malta.