Magro Bros, the Xewkija-based tomato processing firm, has established Farm Fresh, a new subsidiary with a mission to revive Gozo’s culinary heritage.

Hanini, the brand for the dairy produce range, has already launched Irkotta, fresh artisan ricotta in plastic tubs complete with the traditional qaleb (basket) to drain the whey from the cheese.

Hanini will churn out a range of novelties, including Gozitan cheeselet spreads, which will begin to appear in supermarket chilled sections over the next few days, and a variety of traditional cheeses, fresh and dried, in November when sheep’s milk will be in season.

Farm Fresh will also contribute to Magro Bros’ flagship brand Three Hills with a delicatessen range. Seven traditional dips will be launched this month in a new collection of artisan fare originally produced on Gozitan farms. New products include practical, tasty ideas like ready-to-serve Gozitan antipasto with peppered cheeselets, pickles, sun-dried tomatoes, olives and capers in attractive packaging, sundried tomatoes with basil, and butter beans in garlic. The range will mean Three Hills’ portfolio will soon range to more than 20 products.

Magro Bros managing director John Magro has long harboured a fascination with Gozo’s gastronomic history and is the visionary behind Farm Fresh. The dairy project, which required an outlay of €2 million for equipment housed within the Xewkija plant, is actually the realisation of his father’s dream.

Were it not for a declined licence application, the Magros would have originally ventured into the milk business. Around 1916, the Magro family made a living out of bartering Gozitan produce for goods in Malta. The outbreak of undulant fever fuelled the demand for evaporated milk as trading of unpasteurised milk was abolished.

Brothers Wiġi, Ġużeppi and Manwel Magro invested in equipment to begin a milk operation. But the authorities, who instead established the Milk Marketing Unit, did not grant them a licence. The family called in the suppliers to help modify the small plant to process tomatoes instead. Almost a century later, the Magros have obtained all the necessary Maltese and European certification for the dairy venture.

“We hope to stimulate the market, not dominate it,” Mr Magro replied when asked about the new venture’s ambitions. “We see an opportunity. There is a growing demand for traditional foods in innovative formats. The cheeselet spread will appeal to younger generations; it is a way to bridge continuity. Customer feedback shows people are proud of a good Gozitan product and will seek it out over other brands.

“Hanini will not compete on price. It is designed to be an above average product, competing on quality and taste. We are even determined to recreate the flavours of unpasteurised cheese and we have identified the enzymes. Hanini will also bring back a range of cheeses which were particular to each Gozitan village. Our researchers have discovered the recipes.”

Hanini – the term of endearment Mr Magro said his own family loved to use, hence the brand name – has embarked on a marketing campaign before a product-specific drive to raise awareness.

The range has necessitated a complete supply chain plan. With ambitions to bring back produce made from sheep and goat’s milk, staples in the traditional Mediterranean diet, discussions have been held with herdsmen. Many pledged their support to Magro Bros’ project and have expressed their willingness to invest and to seek European Union funding.

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