The obvious starting point is to lay the first row of tiles flush along one wall. This is fine if your walls are straight and square but most aren't, particularly in period properties. If this is the case with your home, you either accept that the tiling won't be perfect and continue anyway, or you "square" the room, which means measuring out reference lines to tile along. Consult a DIY book or website about how to do this.
To start tiling, spread the adhesive with a notched spreader according to the manufacturer's instructions, ensuring you use enough to embed the tiles properly. Work in areas of no more than about one square metre (less if the tiles are particularly small), otherwise the adhesive may begin to set before you've laid the tiles. From time to time, check that the tiles are level using a spirit level and make any adjustments while the adhesive is still pliable.
Ensure the tiles are firmly embedded in the adhesive by pushing them in place with a slight side-to-side motion. Place plastic tile spacers horizontally between each tile to ensure that they're evenly spaced.
However, if the spacers are a similar depth to the tiles, it's a good idea to have the spacers sticking up vertically and then remove them before the adhesive sets firm. This ensures that you won't see them through the grout.
Cutting the tiles is the tricky bit and takes some patience and perseverance. Tile nibblers enable you to nibble away at a tile - ideal if you want to cut the corner off to go round a pipe, for example - though it's hard to get a neat edge, so you'll need to finish off with carbide sandpaper. You can also use a tile saw (and vice) for curves, while paper templates are useful for awkward objects. For straight lines, the cheapest option is a tile cutter, which looks like a guillotine and both scores and snaps tiles.
But far easier (and less wasteful) is a motorised water-cooled diamond-wheel cutter, providing you get one suitable for the thickness of the tile you're using. Once you get the hang of it, cutting straight lines and bevelled edges on these machines is a breeze, but getting a neat curve is still hard. Remember to keep the water tank well topped up, or the cutter will overheat, and use it outside because the spray is messy. The wheel is powerful and easier to use in one direction than the other so take time to get it right. Always wear goggles when cutting or removing tiles, as they tend to splinter.
Before grouting, you usually have to wait 24 hours for the adhesive to set, during which time you mustn't walk on the tiles in case you move them. Some products allow you to grout after only 12 hours, which is great if you're tiling your only bathroom. When you're ready to grout, push the grout firmly into the joints with a grout flout and fill in any holes later. For mosaic tiles, use a rubber-bottom float to smear grout over the entire tile, rather than trying to do the joints individually.
Leave the grout to firm up for a few minutes, then remove any excess by wiping diagonally over the tiles so you don't lift the grout from the joints. Leave it too long and the grout will be very hard to shift, but do it too soon and you risk wiping the grout away. Keep washing the sponge out until all the excess grout is removed.
If the tiles aren't sealed or are matt, you'll need to apply a tile sealing solution to repel stains and water. This is best done before you start the job because otherwise the adhesive and grout will be hard to shift from the surface of the tiles, though it can be done after they've been laid and cleaned. All newly laid tiles require a really good clean with a special tile-cleaning liquid to make them look their best.
Q&A
Is it better to use all-in-one tile adhesive and grout products or separate ones?
Experts generally recommend using separate products but DIYers may find it easier to use combined ones. There are a couple of reasons for this. Firstly, separate products tend to come in powered form and mixing them to the right consistency is a lot more hassle than spreading pre-mixed combined products from a tub.
As well as putting in plenty of elbow grease, you have to ensure that you mix the powdered adhesive or grout properly - it's easy to leave powder at the bottom of the bucket - and that you achieve the same consistency each time.
Secondly, it's common to have adhesive oozing through the joints once the tiles have been laid and if you use the same product for grouting, it will be the same colour when set, giving a better finish.
To start tiling, spread the adhesive with a notched spreader according to the manufacturer's instructions, ensuring you use enough to embed the tiles properly. Work in areas of no more than about one square metre (less if the tiles are particularly small), otherwise the adhesive may begin to set before you've laid the tiles. From time to time, check that the tiles are level using a spirit level and make any adjustments while the adhesive is still pliable.
Ensure the tiles are firmly embedded in the adhesive by pushing them in place with a slight side-to-side motion. Place plastic tile spacers horizontally between each tile to ensure that they're evenly spaced.
However, if the spacers are a similar depth to the tiles, it's a good idea to have the spacers sticking up vertically and then remove them before the adhesive sets firm. This ensures that you won't see them through the grout.
Cutting the tiles is the tricky bit and takes some patience and perseverance. Tile nibblers enable you to nibble away at a tile - ideal if you want to cut the corner off to go round a pipe, for example - though it's hard to get a neat edge, so you'll need to finish off with carbide sandpaper. You can also use a tile saw (and vice) for curves, while paper templates are useful for awkward objects. For straight lines, the cheapest option is a tile cutter, which looks like a guillotine and both scores and snaps tiles.
But far easier (and less wasteful) is a motorised water-cooled diamond-wheel cutter, providing you get one suitable for the thickness of the tile you're using. Once you get the hang of it, cutting straight lines and bevelled edges on these machines is a breeze, but getting a neat curve is still hard. Remember to keep the water tank well topped up, or the cutter will overheat, and use it outside because the spray is messy. The wheel is powerful and easier to use in one direction than the other so take time to get it right. Always wear goggles when cutting or removing tiles, as they tend to splinter.
Before grouting, you usually have to wait 24 hours for the adhesive to set, during which time you mustn't walk on the tiles in case you move them. Some products allow you to grout after only 12 hours, which is great if you're tiling your only bathroom. When you're ready to grout, push the grout firmly into the joints with a grout flout and fill in any holes later. For mosaic tiles, use a rubber-bottom float to smear grout over the entire tile, rather than trying to do the joints individually.
Leave the grout to firm up for a few minutes, then remove any excess by wiping diagonally over the tiles so you don't lift the grout from the joints. Leave it too long and the grout will be very hard to shift, but do it too soon and you risk wiping the grout away. Keep washing the sponge out until all the excess grout is removed.
If the tiles aren't sealed or are matt, you'll need to apply a tile sealing solution to repel stains and water. This is best done before you start the job because otherwise the adhesive and grout will be hard to shift from the surface of the tiles, though it can be done after they've been laid and cleaned. All newly laid tiles require a really good clean with a special tile-cleaning liquid to make them look their best.
Q&A
Is it better to use all-in-one tile adhesive and grout products or separate ones?
Experts generally recommend using separate products but DIYers may find it easier to use combined ones. There are a couple of reasons for this. Firstly, separate products tend to come in powered form and mixing them to the right consistency is a lot more hassle than spreading pre-mixed combined products from a tub.
As well as putting in plenty of elbow grease, you have to ensure that you mix the powdered adhesive or grout properly - it's easy to leave powder at the bottom of the bucket - and that you achieve the same consistency each time.
Secondly, it's common to have adhesive oozing through the joints once the tiles have been laid and if you use the same product for grouting, it will be the same colour when set, giving a better finish.