When the British government took a dig at the local fenkata, out came a carnival float with several children in a rabbit costume, cradled in a pot on top of a kenur.
And when the importation of sugar started kicking honey off Maltese tables, a carnival float reminding people of the natural sweetener took to the roads.
These early 20th century floats are just two of the ones that will feature in a discussion at the Inquisitor’s Palace next week, ahead of carnival celebrations.
Apart from its more known function as a former Inquisitor’s Palace, the place is also the National Museum of Ethnography.
The event will in fact be focusing on how socio-political events related to food were brought to life – albeit with a satirical twist – on carnival floats across the years.
For the occasion, food researcher Noel Buttigieg will move away from the usual prinjolata, kukkanja and perlini discussion and, instead, walk the audience through the food-related debates as illustrated through floats.
The idea for the event has been long in the making. It started in 2003, when he came across two discarded black and white photos outside a bakery in Qormi.
One of them was a group photo of Tarxien carnival enthusiasts, and the other was a picture of a 1931 float showing a group of men dressed up as chefs, surrounding a kenur (Maltese stove).
Carnival floats were also used as a means to educate the public
In a pot on top of the stove, several children were dressed up as rabbits.
Dr Buttigieg said the idea for that float was triggered by what was back then considered derogatory comments by the British. The float was a statement about Maltese identity, and it shows that the disparaging comments about a national symbol had annoyed several Maltese, Dr Buttigieg added.
Dr Buttigieg’s collection of photos has grown since then, and he now has a selection of illustrations that provide a detailed commentary on food-related debates and the ever-evolving local food culture. Apart from serving as a protest, such as in the fenkata case, carnival floats were also used as a means to educate the public.
One such float was built in the 1920s showing a honeycomb surrounded by children dressed up as bees. It was constructed at a time when sugar was becoming popular in Malta and gradually replacing honey in several households.
This small float served as a warning that the Maltese were risking losing a culinary staple if they continued to opt for sugar, Dr Buttigieg said.
Another trend that Dr Buttigieg’s collection depicts is that of sponsored floats, which sometimes also served to raise awareness about the consumption of particular food products.
In the 1950s, one of the floats depicted a cow and pasteurised milk produced by what was then known as the Milk Marketing Undertaking (MMU).
At the time, the British government was trying to convince people that pasteurised cow’s milk should be consumed instead of fresh goat’s milk.
The government had even launched a scheme to swap people’s goats with cows.
Soft drinks, still a novelty for some Maltese, meanwhile saw the Portanier Company sponsoring a lemonade float in 1955.
In those times soft drinks were considered a treat, and a bottle would be shared between some four people at Sunday lunch.
Portanier was also the first soft-drink company to ever sponsor the Maltese football league, and the float served as a celebration of a marketing award handed over by 7 Up International.
Food, Drink and Carnival Floats will take place on February 23 at 7pm at the Inquisitor’s Palace. Entrance is free, however, those interested would need to reserve a place by calling on 2182 7006.