There's no doubt that we Maltese have a lot to show off about when it comes to local produce... and Malta's first enoteca (vintage wine shop) plans to do just that. Buskett is earmarked as the location where both locals and tourists and will be able to sample Maltese wine and traditional food - the enoteca will even be open late to function as a wine bar.

Rural Affairs and Environment Minister George Pullicino told guests at the Delicata vendemmia (harvest) banquet last Wednesday that Malta's first enoteca was to open its doors next year. "Apart from showcasing local produce it will also feature an exhibition about the Buskett habitat and house offices for the new voluntary ecological wardens."

Thirty new ecological wardens will be recruited by next year - and although they'll have to work at least 100 hours a year for free they'll still need to attend a course and pass an exam to get the post.

"Not only will they monitor the countryside - they will also have executive powers to fine people on the spot," the minister said. Violations will include illegal hunting.

"This scheme has been hugely successful in Bologna, where 340 wardens - from young people to pensioners - take part in the scheme."

The project is part of the massive drive by the local industry to promote local wines by all wineries. Delicata is very much part of this drive, especially with its Vines for Wines project and the popular Wine Festival in Valletta this month.

"The Delicata Wine Festival is a great event, but we needed to have a place where we can showcase all Maltese wine together," the minister added.

And it will not just be any locally produced wine that will make the grade and get under the enoteca roof. "We intend to have international regulations and a wine panel. It won't be government-controlled but led by wine connoisseurs," he said.

Although Malta is new to the concept, Italy is no stranger to the enoteca. "We have had help from an Italian expert and we will join an enoteca network in Italy and other wine centres on Mediterranean islands. We also plan to open another enoteca in Valletta in 2006 and another in Gozo the following year," Mr Pullicino announced.

Delicata's Vines for Wines project was established in 1994 to increase their vineyard land used to grow international variety grapes to 2,500 tumoli by 2008. Delicata currently have 1,240 tumoli (140 hectares) of planted land with 752,000 vines spread over 328 vineyards. These produce 1.5 million bottles of quality 'Malta-grown wine' a year - a considerable increase from the original nine vineyards which housed just 28,000 vines over 50 tumoli in 1996, two years after the project began.

The vines in the project just grow the international varieties including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Moscato, Viognier, Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The rest of Delicata-grown grapes are matured in over 300 other vineyards, and produce the indigenous Girgentina and Gellewza grapes which will be harvested last (next month).

Bill Hermitage, Delicata's director of sales and marketing - who also writes a wine column for The Times - said this year's harvest has been good. "We have had a lower yield than average this year, which has meant that the grapes are more concentrated and have more varietal character."

This was due to the cooler summer that led to "steady maturation and growth, which has given the grapes more time for the varietal character to develop. So although the volume of grapes is slightly lower, the consumer is the winner as the quality will be high - they will get better wines at the same price!" Mr Hermitage continued.

In fact this is unusual and specific to Malta that wines of a good vintage keep the same price. "Malta is unique as a wine-growing country - the rest of the wine-producing world tweaks prices when less is produced at a better quality... they put their prices up twice a year, normally. But we don't in Malta.

"Some wines haven't changed price since they were launched three or four years ago. Although the winemaker will be making less it is still not the norm to put up prices, maybe this is because for years we had price controls."

The Cini family - who hosted the banquet at their farmhouse in the heart of the vineyard - are part of the Vines for Wines project with their 24 tumoli vineyard planted with over 13,000 vines of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Merlot grapes. And the very best equipment and vines have been used to set up this vineyard, including drip irrigation, the best American rootstocks and exclusive Delicata clonal selections.

When Delicata launched its scheme 12 years ago the government's Wine Advisory Board was sceptical and did not believe that the wine industry could grow grapes through the farming community. Delicata proved otherwise and are now meeting their targets.

"As long as the EU subsidies remain, we are on target to meet our 2,500 tumoli aim by 2008," Mr Hermitage added.

Just before Malta joined the European Union, wine was chosen as one of the islands' strategic crops for agricultural development and the subsidies given by the government of Lm480 per tumoli have helped enormously as more and more vineyards are being planted.

This year alone Delicata planted 400 tumoli in 150 vineyards and the company now produces a total of four million bottles of wine a year.

George Delicata, who was also present at the banquet and addressed the guests, said his wish is that all the wine produced will eventually be made from Maltese grapes.

"There is a revitalised feeling about the cultures of wine in Malta, both in the wine bars and with the consumer, but consumption is still very low in Malta - less than half that of Italy and France.

"There is still a long way to go and the farmers are on a steep learning curve... there are benefits for the farmers and their families, the environment in general, our tourist industry and all wine consumers. The proof of the pudding is in the eating or, in this case, the drinking!"

So with good food in our bellies, free flowing fine wine on the table, great company and an atmosphere offset by happy children running through vines followed by playful dogs yelping to the music, we were transported from the 'chief' farm house in Zebbug to the wine harvesting celebrations from the film A Walk in the Clouds... before a very memorable off-road drive home!