Marinated rabbit fried in wine and garlic, served with potatoes (or chips) plus salad, may not sound like the most interesting or sophisticated culinary experience available on the islands, yet the fenkata remains hugely popular with both Maltese and visitors.
There are no stingy portions. Everyone helps themselves from the dishes and you can eat as much as you like- Deana Luchia
While many Maltese are dab hands at creating their own fried rabbit dishes at home, with recipes that have been carefully passed down through the generations and then perfected, it’s the social side of things that is one of the main draws of organising a fenkata evening.
Yes, you can eat home-cooked rabbit sitting at your own dining table, but it’s much more sociable to be out in the countryside eating that dish with 30 friends you haven’t seen ina while.
Unlike à la carte dining, the fenkata is particularly suited for large groups. There’s no panic in the kitchen as chefs struggle to synchronise the cooking and delivery of myriad different dishes: when you go out for a fenkata, there’s only one thing on offer – rabbit. This means that chefs can prepare a rabbit in abundance the day before and everyone gets to eat at the same time.
The attraction for foreigners seems to be that the fenkata is viewed as typically Maltese – a national dish if not the national dish. For them, eating rabbit is part of the holidaying-in-Malta experience (And it’s the choice too for those of Maltese heritage living overseas: Canberra’s Maltese Australian Association has an annual fenkata to celebrate Mnarja; numerousMaltese expats offer their versions of fried rabbit on cooking forums).
Michael Camilleri is part of a group of around 20 men and women, in their 50s, that likes to meet up for long, lazy lunches and dinners. Close friends and true foodies, they get together at least twice a month for picnics, beach cook-outs (when the weather is good) and a fenkata.
“What makes a fenkata so popular for me and my friends,” says Michael, “is that the food is good, it’s relatively inexpensive and it’s usually served in a more casual setting than a restaurant. It’s ideal for anyone organising a large get-together.”
The menu is typically rabbit with spaghetti as a starter, then more fried rabbit with potatoes (Maltese-grown, which those in the know swear makes a huge difference) as a main course. It’s the offal that’s used in the starter: liver and kidneys cooked in a tomato sauce. For the main course, the remainder of the rabbit is used, including the head.
“We only do fenkata about twice a year but we make a whole day of it,” says Michael.“We start around noon and keep goinguntil around 6 p.m., eating, drinking andtalking.” It’s a good way to catch up and asit’s typically around €25 per person including wine, an inexpensive, extended meal.”
There are no stingy portions either. “Everyone helps themselves from the dishes and you can eat as much as you like,” says Michael. “And the wine flows abundantly because places that serve fenkata normally serve Maltese wine which keeps the price down. Plus there’s no corkage.”
While many establishments serve rabbit there are some that stand out. “Most rabbit places are car garages converted into a small restaurant,” explains Michael. “Then you have some football clubs or band clubs that also serve good rabbit. But the places I would recommend are Marley’s in Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq (known primarily for fenkata) and Ta’ Soldi in Mġarr which serves Maltese dishes such as horse meat, snails and pork chops in addition to rabbit.” Both are busy and bookings are essential.
“Marley’s is very relaxed and casual with a mostly Eastern European staff. And it’s small, catering to around 40 people,” says Michael, pointing out that this small size is an attraction in itself as it’s often possible to have just one large group of friends take over a place for an afternoon or evening.
“Ta’ Soldi is more of a family place, much bigger and with a more extensive menu,” explains Michael. The restaurant, recommended on plenty of visitors’ websites,has been serving Maltese fare for over25 years. Ta’ Soldi has a large selection ofMaltese wines as well as their ownhomemade wines.
While these may be the best of the established rabbit restaurants, there are plenty of other places serving rabbit, not all of them open to anyone. Some, in fact, are ratherwell-kept secrets with a clientele extremelyreluctant to share the address and contact numbers.
“My friends and I particularly like one ‘restaurant’ in the outskirts of Dingli,” says Michael.
“It’s just a room, really. Very small. A former tool shed. And there’s one woman who cooks everything. We call up and know we will have it all to ourselves.
“It’s not the very best fenkata but when we come here it’s more about the beautiful views, the relaxing atmosphere, and the fact that when we book it we book it just for our group. We always have a great time.”