Mexican Christmas traditions reflect the teaching methods of the Spanish Catholic missionaries, particularly the Franciscan Brothers, in the 16th century.

They used games and theatre plays to teach dogma and biblical stories to Mexico’s indigenous people. While the date of December 25 is the same and much is similar to traditions in other countries, there is a special liveliness – as well as length – to the Mexican Christmas season.

Decorative Christmas street lights and other public decorations begin appearing weeks before the actual day, just as they do in most Christianised countries. Planning by the faithful is similarly well underway early.

In Mexico, the religious nature of the season is emphasised December 12 when thousands of the faithful from around the country make their pilgrimage to the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City to pay homage to Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico’s patron saint.

December 12 is the date she appeared on a hill to a dark skinned Indian convert. He saw her as a beautiful dark-skinned woman who declared she was the Virgin Mary. She asked the poor Indian to have a church built there. The story is long and complicated but that is where the Basilica stands today.

Today, too, there are many churches in her name and at this time of year many altars are erected in her honour. All have special services on the day and all include music, dancers, other artists, special lighting and firecrackers.

Christmas officially begins on December 16 with the Posadas, meaning in this instance, the search for an inn or shelter. They are small processions in communities all over Mexico reenacting the search by Mary and Joseph for a place to stay.

In some communities, the Posada is a procession of children carrying a crèche and going door to door. In other neighbourhoods, it is adults or a mixture of both. Each evening the Posada procession gets turned away at two different houses.

They then make their way to a third house where they sing a special song and the door is opened. They are brought in to join a celebration. Some of these greetings are elaborate, with special foods and drinks; some are small groups of a few neighbours with bible readings and a simple snack. All are welcoming.

The point of the Posadas is to teach children and remind adults of the story of the Nativity. Catholic missionaries used a variety of ways to dramatise biblical stories.

Another seasonal example is the theatrical presentation of the shepherds trying to find their way to see the baby Jesus. Known as Pastorelas from the Spanish word for shepherd, during the Spanish colonial period, they were strictly meant to teach Catholic dogma. They have evolved into light comedies of misdirection as the forces of good and evil stumble and struggle. In the end, good triumphs and the shepherds reach the Christ Child.

The Posadas go out every night until the ninth night, December 24. At that last house on this last night, the celebration is festive and ends with the breaking of a piñata, which looks like a big highly decorated ball. Often it has seven spikes representing the seven sins. It hangs from the ceiling and is filled with fruit, candy and nuts.

Participants get a chance to use a stick to try to break it open. A scarf is tied over the eyes of each person with the stick so that person is as blind as an innocent child. When the piñata breaks open, everyone rushes to get a piece of whatever was in the piñata.

This ninth day is, of course, Christmas Eve and it is the night of the midnight Mass called Misa de Gallo or the Rooster’s Mass. Why the rooster? Some say because it was first to see the Christ Child. Others say it was the only time the rooster crowed at midnight.

Afterwards, families go home for a light meal or for a gourmet dinner that might include a traditional favourite, bacalao a la vizcaína, which is stuffed cod, or roast turkey, or ham and wild greens in mole sauce.

In some homes, gifts are opened, toasts are made and December 25 is a day of rest.

For most, however, gifts are given on Epiphany, January 6, which is also Three Kings Day, the day the Magi arrived in Bethlehem bearing gifts for baby Jesus. On that day, a special round crown-like sweet bread topped with candied fruit is served. In one piece is a tiny plastic baby.

The person who gets a piece with the baby is obliged to host a party on or before Candlemas – February 2 – which marks the end of Mexico’s Christmas holiday season.