The rainforest is one of the most inhospitable places on earth, at least to a visitor.
Wellies are so common in Peru that locals even wear them to the disco- Helen Raine
The mosquitoes don’t just emerge at dusk to annoy you; they are there around the clock, feasting gluttonously on any exposed skin. Some are so vicious, their bite actually hurts, although at least that alerts you to their presence, giving you half a chance to wreak revenge by annihilating your attacker.
And if it’s not the mosquitoes, it’s the sand flies. They have a bite so murderously itchy that I’ve seen people literally scratch their skin off after a frenzied attack. Of course, scratching lets in infection which leads to all manner of unpleasantness best avoided.
All of this is a roundabout way to say that despite the soaring temperatures and high humidity which make you want to embrace nudism, long sleeved shirts and long trousers tucked into your socks (the epitome of bad fashion, but essential wear in the jungle) are an absolute must on a trip to the Amazon. And unless you want a forehead emblazoned with red dots, a bandana or hat is also pretty vital.
On top of this, some liberal doses of the repellent Deet on your clothes and any exposed skin should reduce the number of bites (I hate to recommend an insect repellent which can melt a plastic watch strap, but the organic citronella hippy stuff is not going to be up to the job here).
There’s no way of avoiding bites altogether, however, so pack some antihistamine cream and tablets too. All lodges should supply mosquito nets, but they can get a bit tatty, so it might be worth taking a large double one, treated in advance with the insecticide Permethrin to repel the critters.
Water in the main lodges will be purified or bottled, but shower water might be straight from the river, so avoid getting it in your mouth and take the usual first-aid kit of rehydration salts and Immodium, as well as some water purification tablets just in case.
It’s also worth bearing in mind that some lodges are several hours by river from the nearest town with medical facilities, so your first-aid kit will want to err on the side of caution; talk to your doctor about whether it might be appropriate to take some antibiotics with you in case of contracting some of the more common infections, such as urinary tract infections or stomach upsets. Giardia in particular is very prevalent in most areas.
On the other hand, some rainforest areas do not have malaria so before you purchase anti-malarials, get some good local advice based on your exact destination.
Most rainforest trails are fringed with bamboo which has an uncanny ability to stab, grab and scratch you on a regular basis. The wounds always seem to get infected, so you need a good pair of tweezers to remove the spikes and an antiseptic cream afterwards.
Wellies are essential because most jungle trails get pretty gummed up with mud. Hiking boots will just get utterly coated in thick goo, whereas wellies (easily purchased locally) can be doused with water. They are so common in Peru that locals even wear them to the disco (I can attest that it does not reduce their ability to give it their all on the dance floor). Flip flops are also useful for the walkways around your rainforest lodge.
Rain falls so fast and heavy here that your average Gortex jacket can get pretty drenched. Locals wear ponchos which are completely waterproof and drip dry quickly.
They are also roomy enough to fit your day pack under during a downpour.
A headtorch will illuminate a night-walk through the forest much better than a hand held torch, and since some lodges don’t have en suite toilets, will also prove useful if you need to navigate your way to the loo in the middle of the night.
The most interesting rainforest inhabitants are often shy, and bearing in mind that many of the trees are more than 50 metres tall, they’ve got plenty of places to hide, so you really can’t do without a good pair of binoculars.
A camera goes without saying, but take two back-up batteries as lodges use generators, so the electricity may not be reliable. Also, the low light conditions and humidity make normal photography difficult. Everything comes out looking like you forgot the flash, or utterly bleached with the flash on, so investigate how to make the most of the light levels on your camera before you go.
Most importantly, invest in a good waterproof bag for your camera and other valuables. I don’t want to become a bore about the rain, but the fact that it only lasts a short time doesn’t reduce its devastating effect on electronics, so don’t get caught out.
And perhaps it’s just me, but low blood sugar makes me astonishingly grumpy. The reality is that to see the animals in the rainforest, you need to be out well before breakfast and after dark. Cereal bars and other sealed snacks will ward off the hunger pangs until the lodge feeds you (any open packets attract ants, rats and cute but voracious possums, so throw leftovers away). You could be a day away from the nearest store, so stock up in advance.
Most of all (well, perhaps not as much as the wellies, but close) you need to pack a sense of adventure and awe to enjoy the forest. Being lashed with spiky bamboo and bitten remorselessly is trying, but a single sighting of a cuvier’s toucan or a harpy eagle makes you forget any annoyances instantly. Pack for the most obvious eventualities, then pull on your poncho and prepare to be amazed.