Keen to tuck into something tasty, Jo Caruana heads to the city to discover the sheer warren of new and old restaurants capturing national attention for all the right reasons.

Photo: Darrin Zammit Lupi

It wasn’t long ago that Valletta felt as dead as a dodo around dinnertime. I can recall winter evenings spent wandering down Republic Street looking for a place to pit stop after an early theatre rehearsal or evening meeting, and being met by closed doors and the odd, tired-looking cafe, serving up their last pastizz. It wasn’t pretty.

These days, though, our capital is experiencing something of a foodie renaissance – and it’s about time too. Now you can visit on any given day and be spoilt for choice with world-class cuisine served up by highly-trained staff and in pretty surroundings. From fine dining to gourmet pasta and Greek treats to Middle Eastern meze, you will want for nothing.

“Valletta is ideal as an eating-out destination, as it offers a wide variety of restaurants in such a small area,” says major Alexiei Dingli. “In fact, at any given time, you’re just walking distance away from around 50 eateries, serving all sorts of food.”

Highlighting the city’s nickname – an open-air museum – Dr Dingli believes Valletta’s atmosphere and setting really are something special. “Plus there’s the largely fine weather that makes it feasible to dine outdoors for most of the year and enjoy it,” he says.

It is our dream to attain quality labels such as the Unesco Capital of Gastronomy, thus also placing Valletta on the international culinary map

With that in mind, it’s great news that al fresco dining does seem to have caught on in the city. Stalwarts like Malata, with its view of dancing fountains and regular jazz entertainment, have long led the way; while newer kids on the block, such as D’Office on Archbishop Street and Rampila in the St John’s Cavalier bastions, have made an art of serving reliably good food under the stars.

“Quality has definitely gone up,” continues Dr Dingli. “We’ve realised that restaurants only survive in the city if they’re good; patrons chase quality. As a result, the perceived downside of eating in Valletta – access – doesn’t put people off, as they know the product will be worth it. We want to nurture that as much as possible.”

And with this clear penchant for good food came an influx of fine-dining restaurants. Now dotted around the city you’ll find fine examples of gourmet options from chefs who really like to think outside the box.

For instance, recent addition Michael’s at the Civil Service Sports Club on Archbishop’s Street has fast gained a reputation for offering really great food at reasonable prices – hence his number-one spot on the Tripadvisor list of restaurants in Valletta. Here, chef patron Michael Cauchi has wowed patrons with his fresh pasta and homemade desserts (among them a trio of crème brûlées flavoured with pistachio, chocolate and vanilla that tastes as good as it sounds).

Also attracting a fine-dining crowd – and especially busy for lunch, whatever day of the week – is Palazzo Preca on Strait Street. The sister duo behind this place, Ramona and Roberta Preca (born into the foodie family that runs the famed Tal-Familja Restaurant in Marsascala), has given the fine-dining menu a modern spin, and is renowned for the fish, shell fish and meat dishes.

Staying on Strait Street, it is actually this road that has enjoyed the greatest transformation of them all. It has gone from a derelict wreck to a street enjoying a second heyday in a matter of months and, as Dr Dingli states, “it is experiencing a completely new revival”.

Aside from Palazzo Preca and beloved wine bar Trabuxu (which was gunning for Strait Street long before anyone else), it is sprightly new hang-outs Tico Tico and Streat that are leading the way. Although very different in style they have somehow crafted an unwritten collaboration that sees patrons morphing between the two – enjoying light meals and drinks (especially on Friday and Saturday nights) and giving this alley a vibrant new lease of life.

As for the other side of the city, things on Merchants Street have been injected with a little foreign flair thanks to the likes of international La Mere (known for its curries and Indian specialities) and Elia, which serves up traditional Greek treats made by mother-son duo Eugenia and Labros. And round the corner in a steps-side hole in the wall, Piadina is a favourite for Italian flatbreads and focaccia.

“This mix of old and new spots, with local and foreign flavours, is fantastic,” Dr Dingli says. “At this stage, the capital needs to maintain this momentum of facilitating new openings and promoting its offerings.

“This is especially important in view of Valletta 2018, when the city will experience a new revival and people will expect even more quality establishments.

“Furthermore, it is our dream to attain quality labels such as the Unesco Capital of Gastronomy, thus also placing Valletta on the international culinary map, and we also dream of changing the closed market into an international food hall. Fingers crossed!” he adds.

Top tips… for dining in Valletta

Think outside the box. Until a couple of years ago, you’d have been forgiven for sticking with the restaurants you already know, but these days, you can really mix things up by trying somewhere new or somewhere you previously excluded. There are few places that haven’t raised their game in this competitive environment, and they all offer something to tickle those taste buds.

Take a wander. Let your eyes lead you as you discover new places that have popped up recently – and don’t forget the backstreets. You’ll be surprised by the number of dinky and enticing places to unearth.

Consult social media. With so much choice you’re bound to want to narrow things down. Cyberspace is ideal for this – ask for advice from food lovers on Facebook and Twitter and check out independent reviews on Tripadvisor.

Book ahead. Think dining in Valletta is always a doddle? Think again. Just the other day we found two places were fully booked… on a Tuesday! Call ahead to reserve your table, whatever day of the week it is.