Dracula, gypsies and wild horses couldn’t drag Alannah Eames away from the beautiful sights of Romania, with its chic cities, cute countryside villages and dramatic mountains.
Romania usually conjures up images of Dracula Castle, Transylvania, gymnast Nadia Comaneci and, on a less pleasant note, dictator Nicolae Ceausescu and pick-pocketing gangs that have been exported.
However, this somewhat mysterious country is also one of Europe’s undiscovered tourism gems – home to the biosphere of the Danube Delta, the beautiful Transylvanian Alps, medieval castles, hilltop villages and Europe’s largest brown bear population.
As the plane descends over the vast, rural flatlands west of Bucharest, the grey skyline of the city appears in the distance. I start to get curious; I have no expectations or prejudices about this city, which none of my friends have visited.
Bucharest reminds me of a raunchier – and friendlier – version of a French city
While tourists flock to Prague, Budapest and Krakow, Bucharest – in Romania – is rarely on the tourist radar. It remains somewhat of an ‘exotic’ place, far-flung east, bordered by the Transylvanian Alps in the north, the River Danube in the south and the Black Sea on the east.
My first impression as I wander the cobbled streets of the Old Town, where girls sit outdoors at cafes and restaurants with a glass of wine and cigarette in hand, is that it reminds me of a raunchier – and friendlier – version of a French city.
In fact, the city was often dubbed The Little Paris between the two world wars due to its elegant architecture and stylish elite. Then, there is the monumental Arcul de Triumf, a miniature version of Paris’ Arc de Triomphe.
Connections between France and Romania have, traditionally, been strong. In the past, Romanian politicians and writers were inspired by French thought and culture, while the wealthier Romanians studied in Paris. As a result, many of the older generations spoke French as their second language; today, English or German is the preferred language of younger students.
But some ties still remain: the current Romanian Constitution is based on that of France’s Fifth Republic and Dacia – the country’s national car and successful export product – is owned by France’s Renault. Even the Romanian language appears a bit of a mish-mash of Italian and French. That’s because it belongs to the romance family of languages, which includes French, Catalan and Spanish.
A city of contradictions
Bucharest is a city of architectural juxtapositions – majestic buildings like the Romanian Central Bank and National History Museum lie alongside Soviet-era concrete monstrosities and modern, glass skyscrapers.
No first-timer to the city would call it beautiful, but many expats will tell you that it is a city whose hidden charms lurk below the surface; you just have to dig a bit deeper to find them.
Several things struck me as I strolled around Bucharest. Firstly, the warmth of the people – when I asked women on the street for directions, they would accompany me to my destination.
During meetings, we were greeted with a buffet and drinks; where in Western Europe today would you receive such a welcome?
The second thing that impressed me was the language skills of the locals: not all (i.e. taxi drivers) but many could hold a conversation in English, German or French.
Thirdly, the prices: Bucharest is reasonable for the average euro traveller and €1.50 will get you a five-kilometre taxi ride. Bucharest is also a huge city with 2.2 million people, home to over 10 per cent of the country’s population.
From dark to lighter days
Romania has a rich history with several dark chapters. It was once part of the Ottoman Empire and its Transylvania region belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire, hence the number of Hungarian-speaking Romanians. In 1947, King Michael I was overthrown by the Communists and Romania became a republic, coming under the harsh rule of Ceausescu in 1965. His reign of terror became synonymous with purges, forced labour and repression of his people until he was toppled in a violent revolution in 1989.
After the fall of the Iron Curtain, Romania began to edge closer to the West. It joined Nato in 2004 and the EU in 2007. Growth was high between 2000 and 2008, earning it the name ‘the tiger of Eastern Europe’ until the global economic downturn kicked in.
Today, however, the Romanian economy is in somewhat better shape than other Western European countries; GDP is estimated to grow by 1.6 per cent in 2013 and 2.2 per cent in 2014. Nonetheless, millions of Romanians have left the country in search of better opportunities, with many settling in Italy and Spain.
In general, two days are more than enough in Bucharest. As it has good airport, train and road connections, it is the perfect gateway to the wilder, more remote parts of the country.
The great outdoors
With its mountainous, hilly and lowland territories, Romania is home to 60 per cent and 40 per cent of Europe’s brown bear and wolf population respectively; it’s said that there are over 5,000 brown bears in this part of Europe.
For nature lovers, there are almost 10,000 square kilometres of protected areas, including the Danube Delta, where the River Danube flows into the Black Sea. One of the largest and least damaged wetlands in Europe, it is home to a huge selection of birdlife and animals like otters, mink and wild horses.
Increasingly lured by attractive prices and less crowded resorts, Europeans are heading to Romania (and Bulgaria) for winter skiing vacations in its mountain regions, and summer beach holidays on the Black Sea.
Melting pot of culture
Yet, the real magnet for many travellers remains Bran Castle near Brasov, the legendary residence of Bram Stoker’s Dracula. For more serious culture lovers, famous World Heritage Sites in Romania include the Saxon villages with fortified churches in Transylvania, the painted churches of northern Moldavia with their fine exterior and interior frescoes and the wooden churches of Maramures, which uniquely combine gothic and timber styles.
Romania has a unique mix of cultures due to its location at the crossroads of three distinctive regions: Central Europe, Eastern Europe and the Balkans. Its colourful history is reflected in the traditional folkloric costumes and dances which are part of every Romanian celebration, while its geographic location has shaped its cuisine.
A speciality is ciorba (pronounced chorba), a soup with a characteristically sour taste, and sarmale, which consists of meat, mixed with rice and wrapped in cabbage or vine leaves. Then, as a nod to its emotional connection to Italy, there are plenty of trendy Italian-style cafes in the larger cities.
A country in transition
If you think only gypsies live in Romania and that every Romanian town resembles a scene from the movie Borat, you’ll be disappointed.
Gypsies make up just 3.2 per cent of the Romanian population. And, according to a report by Bloomberg in 2013, Romania is ranked fifth in the world – and second in Europe – in terms of internet connection speed; the western city of Timisoara was recently named by a Net Index report as the city with the highest download speed in the world.
Europeans are heading to Romania for winter skiing vacations in its mountain regions, and summer beach holidays on the Black Sea
Education levels are also high: in 2012, according to the QS World University Rankings, four Romanian universities made it into their top 700. In the past, Romanian researchers and inventors have contributed to developments in aeronautics and medicine, among other fields. Henri Coanda – after whom Bucharest airport is named – discovered the Coanda effect of fluidics, while biologist Nicolae Paulescu discovered insulin.
More recently, notable Romanian ambassadors abroad include footballer Gheorge Hagi, often called the Maradona of the Carpathians, tennis player Ilie Nastase, who won several international Grand Slams, and Comaneci, who became the first gymnast ever to score a perfect 10 in the Olympics.
Romania – and its capital – is still undiscovered. But you’d better get there fast because tourism is tipped as one of the country’s most underdeveloped sectors and is targeted for future growth. But be sure, if like me, you’ve been to Bucharest and seen postcards from the Danube Delta and Tranyslvania, you’ll feel cheated and want to return to explore Transylvania and the Danube Delta.
As the plane lifts off, a misty veil hangs over the landscape and the sun begins to rise; on the horizon is the dramatic backdrop of the Transylvanian Alps. Maybe I’m imagining it, but I can almost swear I see Dracula Castle.
Don’t miss …
Bucharest Hop-On, Hop-Off bus tour: A good way to kill an afternoon and get an overview of this large city.
Old Town: Not so much of historical value but has its own charm and the city’s best nightspots.
Local cuisine: Try ciorba, a soup-like dish, and sarmale washed down with a glass of good local Romanian wine; you won’t find Romanian cuisine on every high street in Europe.
Stunning architecture: As you spot some of the city’s landmark monuments, make sure you go inside. For example, the Palace of Parliament is second only to the Pentagon in size; other architectural masterpieces are the National History Museum and the Central Bank.
Transylvania: Dive into culture, nature and history in its villages, where time stands still and home-produced food is the norm.
Bran Castle: Even if you’re not a fan of Dracula, this impressive castle nestled into luscious scenery is one of the country’s highlights.
Danube Delta: With its lakes, ponds, streams, channels, reeds and impressive birdlife, this is a paradise for nature lovers.
About Romania
Location: At the intersection of central and southeastern Europe, Romania is bordered by Hungary and Serbia on the west, Ukraine and Moldova on the east, and Bulgaria to the south. At 238,391 square kilometres, it is the eighth largest country in the EU by area.
Economy: According to Eurostat data, the net average monthly wage in the country is approximately €387 – one of the lowest in the EU. Taxes are low and the economy is mainly based on services, industry and agriculture; tourism and natural resources have great potential for growth.
Currency: The leu, but Romania is expected to adopt the euro in 2015.
Population: 20 milllion; 88.6 per cent are Romanians, 6.5 per cent Hungarians and 3.2 per cent gypsies (2011 Census). The largest urban areas are Bucharest (2.2 million), Constanta (500,000), Timisoara (385,000) and Brasov (370,000).
How to get there: Lufthansa via Munich or Frankfurt; Turkish Airlines via Istanbul; or Alitalia/Tarom via Rome
When to go: Summers are hot and winters cold; spring and autumn are good choices as temperatures are neither too hot nor too cold for outdoor activities.