Mythical, charming, picturesque, quaint yet vibrant... these words came to mind when I first visited Scilla one evening back in 1988 (and returned to mind more recently during another visit); it was love at first sight. One could immediately guess it had many stories to tell.

Stunningly located on the Costa Viola in the Calabria region of Italy, this pretty little fishing town is a place of myths that bears a history stretching back thousands of years.

Its mysterious origins have made Scilla an irresistible subject for writers throughout its existence. One writer eloquently wrote, “Once charming and regal, Scilla casts a powerful spell, a kind of enchantment which gradually creeps into the depths of the onlooker inducing him to dream.”

Scilla is a town full of fascination, whose origins are lost in the mists of time; a true blend of mythology, history, legends and poetic illustrations that merge into a distant past rich in character and charm. It has been described by the likes of Homer, Ovid and Virgil and owes its name to the legendary sea monster Scylla.

In Homer’s Odyssey, when Ulysses began his perilous journey home, he had to cross a stormy strait. On one side was Charybdis, a sea monster with a gaping mouth that swallowed huge quantities of water, belching it out three times a day to create whirlpools.

On the other side was Scylla, the seven-headed beast slumbering at the foot of the steep cliff. Any vessel coming near the whirlpool was inevitably engulfed. They were said to be located close enough to each other to pose an inescapable threat to passing sailors; avoiding Charybdis meant passing too closely to Scylla and vice-versa. Ulyssis is located in the Straits of Messina, Charybdis in Sicily and Scylla in Scilla.

The earthquake in 1783 destroyed most of Scilla and Calabria. Entire families were wiped out, and buildings, bridges and the fortifications of the castle were also destroyed. Whatever was left standing was then damaged by the 1908 earthquake.

The 43-square-kilometre town can easily be explored on foot. It is made up of three districts: the beach resort of the Marina Grande; the castle and administrative centre, which is also the main residential area and boasts beautiful views, known as San Giorgio; and the picturesque fisherman’s district known as Chianalea.

Marina Grande is fairly modern and one of the main attractions for tourists. It is lined with bars and restaurants and is generally bustling with holidaymakers and locals during the summer months.

The 15th century Chiesa di Santo Spirito is definitely worth a visit. Built in 1752 by devout sailors who came to Scilla during the 18th century, visitors can appreciate colourful marble works and Francesco Celebrano’s masterpiece, The Descent of the Holy Spirit.

Spread out on the plateau above sea level is San Giorgio. The church of San Rocco, the patron saint of the town, overlooks the Piazza San Rocco, which offers breathtaking views of the Marina Grande and other parts of the village.

San Rocco is said to have come to Scilla during an epidemic of the plague, where he tended to the sick and reputably contributed to many miraculous cures by prayer, the sign of the cross and the touch of his hand.

Perched on a promontory jutting out over the Straits of Messina and overlooking the azure waters of the sea is the imposing Castello Ruffo, an old fortification built for military purposes and then converted into a residential property in 1532 by Count Paolo Ruffo, who lived in the castle for a number of years.

This castle plays an important role in the history of Scilla and is considered by many to be the most beautiful castle in Scilla, not for its structure but for its historical and mythological significance.

It has long been the emblem of the town and although myth has it that its origins date back to Ulysses, who built the oldest part of the fortification as a temple in honour of Minerva, its first foundations date back to the fifth century BC during Anasilla’s tyranny, and it was built between the ninth and 11th centuries AD.

The earthquake in 1783 did not spare the castle but it was restored in 1810, only for most of the old structure to be destroyed in the earthquake of 1908. At various times it has been a fortress, a home, a lighthouse, a monastery and, most recently, a youth hostel.

It is currently a cultural centre and holds a number of photography and painting exhibitions and sculpture symposiums. There is also a permanent exhibition of the luntre, the only remaining historical vessel that was once used for hunting swordfish.

Squeezed between the waves and the main road below the cliffs, Chianalea is a charming little fishermen’s settlement with cobblestone streets and a unique atmosphere. This little historical district is lined with tiny cramped houses built right next to the sea, separated from each other by small alleys. Waves wash up to their walls and little fishing boats are drawn up on tiny slipways.

Here one can while away time on a cafe terrace over the water or stroll out to see the boats in the harbour below the castle. This enchanting little place is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.

At any time of day, fishermen can be seen sitting outside mending their nets or chatting with each other. Fishing for swordfish was the staple of the local economy here until a few years ago.

One cannot but fall in love with Scilla, with its beautiful beaches, historical charm, vibrant colours and Mediterranean flavours and fragrances. Along with its helpful and friendly inhabitants, it offers a mix of culture, history and cuisine.

Getting to Scilla is easy. Located just 20 km north of Reggio Calabria, it is conveniently served by the railway line which travels along Italy’s Tyrrhenian coast and can also be reached fairly easily by car. Air Malta flies direct to Reggio Calabria.