Shops are closing, cash machines are switched off, electricity lines have been cut and the streets are eerily empty of traffic.

Yoga sessions, holistic Balinese massages and meditations in temples are as much a part of the Bali experience as are the scores of souvenir shops and never-ending sales pitches

Locals are frantically sweeping their houses clean, banging noisy metallic objects and waving incense sticks around rooms, driving out all the forces of evil from their homes. Others are putting the final touches on their gigantic hideous-looking demonic statues made out of bamboo and paper called ogoh-ogohs.

This is not a typical day in the popular tourist haunt of Ubud, deep in the Balinese jungle. It’s all part of the build-up to Nyepi, Bali’s national holiday and Day of Silence.

Once it gets dark, the ogoh-ogohs are paraded through the villages and towns across the island, before being burned to banish all evil spirits.

The next day – after their homes, villages, towns and island have been purified – is the start of the Balinese New Year. After all the commotion of the past 24 hours and months of preparation, it’s a day of meditation, fasting and an eerie stillness for this Hindu-dominated population.

Everybody has to remain indoors and guests must stay in their hotel. There is no television reception, lights are dimmed everywhere, flights over Bali are banned and there is no way to enter or leave the island by air or ship. Those who disobey the rules are fined 50 kilos of rice.

This unusual experience is a far cry from the normally bustling island where traffic jams are commonplace and selling is part of the local entrepreneurs’ DNA.

In Bali, old Hindu traditions live seamlessly side by side with modern-day commercialism – morning yoga sessions, holistic Balinese massages and meditations in temples are as much a part of the Bali experience as are the scores of souvenir shops (also at the gates to the temples) and never-ending sales pitches.

Local prices have been driven up by wealthy Korean and Japanese tourists and by Australians with a strong Aussie dollar, who arrive by the jet-loads. The country’s international airport has become one of the busiest in the region.

Sadly, most of the tourism revenue seems to go straight to the Indonesian capital, Jakarta; there’s little evidence of it being reinvested in Bali’s roads and environment.

Part of Muslim-dominated Indonesia, Bali is the country’s largest tourist destination. Its culture has been shaped over the years by Indian, Chinese and Hindu influences.

During the 15th century, many artists, intellectuals, priests and musicians moved from the neighbouring island of Java after the decline of the Hindu Majapahit Empire on eastern Java.

From the 16th century to the 19th century, the Dutch colonised Indonesia and struggled to control Bali. In the 1930s, Bali began to emerge as a tourism destination but this was interrupted by the Japanese invasion during World War II.

Afterwards, the Dutch hastily tried to re-conquer the island nation but met resistance from the locals armed with Japanese weapons.

The 1960s were a tough time for the Balinese – thousands were killed by the eruption of Mount Agung volcano and the purges initiated by General Suharto.

In 2002 and 2005, Bali’s tranquillity was once again shattered when Islamic militants bombed two resorts, killing and injuring many tourists. Fortunately, since then, security has been tightened and the tourists have returned.

Nowhere else will you find a coffee made out of beans that have been digested by the civet, extracted from its faeces and, subsequently,dried and roasted intoa coffee with a musky, earthy taste

The name Bali conjures up exotic images of colourful costumes and dances, ornate Hindu temples, stunning sunsets, handcrafted wooden furniture, luscious rice paddies and coffee plantations.

Bali is also home to one of the world’s most unique – and most expensive – coffees: the famous Luwak coffee.

Nowhere else in the world will you find a coffee made out of beans that have been digested by the cat-like civet animal, extracted from its faeces and, subsequently, dried and roasted into a coffee with a musky, earthy kind of taste. Bali may be an island but don’t expect a beach holiday as it does not boast the kind of beautiful, pristine, sandy beaches you will find in Thailand or other island paradises.

What it does promise – and deliver – is luxury five-star resorts and hippie-style yoga retreats tucked away in the jungle, where you can rediscover your inner self.

National monuments, such as the fascinating Tanah Lot island rock temple, with their enthralling Hindu legends, will charm even the most rational visitor.

Unfortunately, Bali has gone down the mass market tourism route. During my trip, I met several Australian tourists who had visited Bali for the past 20 years. Many lamented the island’s loss of purity, criticising the rising prices and growing pollution.

Indonesia is notorious for its poor safety regulations and dubious environmental policy. It’s trying hard to shake off this image, but, like other developing nations, it still has a long way to go to bring its safety and environmental standards up to scratch.

Watching the piles of trash washing up on the beach at Jimbaran Bay, spotting a rat under my table in a local beach-side restaurant, and seeing images from the recent crash of Indonesian low-cost carrier Lion Air’s new plane, which landed in the water short of the runway in Bali, raised questions about the country’s tourism standards.

If its temples, tropical jungle, local culture and traditions, and a luxury retreat to rediscover your inner balance you’re after, Bali can tick all these boxes.

Personally, from my experience outside the resorts, the constant traffic jams, incessant barrage of sales people, dirty beaches, commercialisation of the temples, and the never-ending horror stories about airline incidents in the country, have put me off going back.

At a glance...

How to get there

Bali’s Ngurah Rai International Airport is served by all major regional Asian airlines; other options include Singapore Airlines which code shares with Lufthansa; there are also direct flights to and from Australia.

Where to stay

Jamahal Private Resort & Spa. An oasis of calm and personal butler service awaits you in this beautiful boutique, villa-style hotel. In Jimbaran Bay, it’s just 15 minutes from the airport and is close to other top hotels like the Intercontinental and Orient Express. Visit www.jamahal.net.

The Royal Pita Maha. Owned by the Ubud royal family, this property is set in a luscious, green rainforest and valley. The villas have panoramic views and the morning yoga sessions down by the river are a plus. A great base to explore Ubud. Visit www.royalpitamaha-bali.com.

Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort. A top-class golf course and one of the best spots to have a sun-downer overlooking the spectacular Tanah Lot temple.

Ayana Resort & Spa Bali. Nestled into the cliff-top, this stunning luxury resort is home to the award-winning Ayana Rock Bar, one of the most hip – and unique – nightspots in Bali.

Where the tourists go

Ubud: the boho hangout for artists, intellectuals and yoga lovers. Tucked away in the jungle, it is crammed with cosy restaurants, health retreats and art galleries; it’s also next to the popular Monkey Forest.

Kuta: this long, sandy stretch of coastline attracts package tourists, youngsters, Australians and party animals.

Jimbaran Bay: home to some of the island’s most luxurious resorts.

Seminyak: if you want to be close enough to party in Kuta but prefer to stay in a quieter upmarket area.

Lombok and Gili Islands: just a stone’s throw from Bali, these islands are a bit less discovered.

Lovina: off the beaten track, in the north of Bali, it’s the place for dolphin safaris.