Sitting at a pavement cafe overlooking a cobbled square encircled by churches, the aroma of French coffee in the air... surely I’m in France? Wrong – I’m admiring the Vrijthof Square of Maastricht, a city coloured by its historic rulers.
A cobbled city that borrows fine French food, great Belgian beer, and culture and history from its neighbours- Caroline Crutchley
Sandwiched between Belgium and Germany but actually part of the Netherlands, this city certainly has a split personality. The French invaded and Napoleon took control in the 18th century, giving it some fine architecture, food and wine.
The laid-back Dutch visit this vibrant city for a dose of ‘Frenchness’ without leaving their country, with 70 per cent of the tourism here domestic. I felt as though the rest of Europe was overlooking this city.
Maastricht hit the headlines in 1992 when an EU treaty was signed here in a grand chateau, followed by a second in 1993. The Maastricht Treaty formed the basis of the European single currency, once widely heralded but now perilously close to strangling the continent.
If you have the money stay in Chateau Neercanne (www.chateauhotels.nl) – it is luxury par excellence.
I am sure most Europeans had absolutely no idea where the city was when it hit the news in 1992. Nestled both sides of the River Meuse, it lies at the heart of continental Europe.
This compact city is ideal for ambling around, with many unexpected things to catch the eye. Many a viewpoint and bench had accompanying bronze statues to share the view with me.
A young boy and his dog caught my eye in Stokstraat. Pieke, as he is known, was a Romany character from a book and lived in the slums. He and his dog, Maoke, used to sell contraband cigarettes to passers-by. These little touches made the city shine.
The old network of canals can be seen rushing past the brickwork footings of old properties.
The city was a Roman bastion that became an important Roman Catholic stronghold when Bishop St Servatius moved there in 380. He is buried in the massive medieval basilica, whose treasure house is packed with gold, ivory and silk objects. To this day, every seventh year the ‘towards the light’ pilgrims converge on the city.
The nearby Protestant St John’s church was once Catholic, and it has a massive organ and wall paintings. In the square of churches where I was sitting, they jostled for supremacy and sat uneasily side by side.
Walking the walls of the heavily fortified city brought me to Hell’s Gate, built by Henry I in 1229 and the oldest in Holland. Another interesting sight is the town hall on Market Square, which houses a 49-bell carillon clock.
With two French sieges and occupation by the Germans during World War II, Maastricht has been a keystone in European history, and that is perhaps why it was chosen for the signing of the treaties.
The old quarter is a maze of streets filled with cafes, bistros and bars. This is not, however, a city for the unruly masses.
I stayed at the 15th century Kruishernhotel, the monastery of the Crutched Friars, now converted to a luxury hotel and part of the Design Hotel Group (www.designhotels.com). The hotel is set within the ancient shell and accessed down a highly polished copper tunnel, which opens into the hushed world of the monastery.
The restaurant floated somewhere between the stone floor and the ancient arched roof. Stained glass windows surrounded my room, up among the rafters, to make my stay heavenly within the original monks’ quarters.
Maastricht is also a city of festivals, from its famous Lent carnival to the fine arts festival that attracts the very wealthy from all over the world. Jazz and design are also strong, with international students competing for the design courses.
The city exudes class, with designer shops and antiques that do not need to display price tags. The ‘If you need to ask the price – it is too expensive’ motto is true here.
At the end of each August the Preuvenemint takes place, with over 30 stalls providing visitors a chance to savour food and produce. Attracting over 100,000 visitors, the event raises funds for charity.
Catching the boat down the river to the St Pieterberg limestone caves, I took three hours to explore the dark and dank spaces. I just wished I had taken a torch. The underground alleys were once a defensive system to the west of the city and they are worth visiting if you’re not afraid of the dark.
Nearby, marlstone was mined in the Jesuit caves. In the 1700s Jesuit students artfully carved into the subterranean walkways. With a 10˚C temperature and high humidity, go prepared.
Ceramique is the modern part of town, full of cafes such as Poshoorn, which is ideal for a hearty soup.
Modern buildings have been sympathetically added to this perfectly preserved city, and the Bonnefantenmuseum of art sits happily by the riverbank, its relaxing atmosphere making it feel like a Saturday every day.
For the sporty Dutch there are bike rides and hikes in the nearby countryside.
Maastricht, along with Valletta, is bidding to become European Capital of Culture in 2018 and it should at last be put on the tourist map. A cobbled city that borrows fine French food, great Belgian beer, and culture and history from its neighbours.
Maastricht is a gem and well worth the one-hour train journey from Eindhoven airport.