2 kilos fresh mussels
3 tbsps olive oil
1 small onion, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
A few parsley stalks
½ tsp peppercorns
150 ml dry vermouth or white wine
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped
Pinch fennel seed, lightly crushed
4 tbsps cream
2 large plum tomatoes, deseeded and diced
1 heaped tbsp parsley
500 g spaghetti, cooked and drained
Ground black pepper

Scrub and debeard the mussels and discard any that won’t close when given a sharp tap. Heat a tablespoon of the oil in a very large pan and fry the onion until softened. Add the garlic, parsley stalks, peppercorns and vermouth and bring to the boil.

Tip the mussels into the pan, put the lid on and cook just until they open, shaking the pan from time to time. Tip into a colander standing over a bowl and reserve the liqueur. Shell most of the mussels, retaining a few in their shells for decoration. Cover and keep warm.

Heat the remaining oil and fry the fennel until starting to soften. Add the fennel seed and fry for a minute more, then pour in 250 ml of the mussel liqueur. Stir in the cream, bring to the boil and let it bubble for a few minutes until slightly reduced.

Add the tomatoes and parsley, then tip it all on to the drained pasta, together with the shelled mussels and a good grind of black pepper, and toss it all together.

Divide between warm bowls, top with the reserved mussels in their shells and serve with lots of bread to mop up the juices. (Serves 4)