The stunning coastline backed by hills sparkled in the early spring sunshine. I shared the quiet roads and sandy beaches with birds and the occasional dog walker. This is the north of Sardinia, the second largest Italian island after Sicily.
The Alghero artisans of coral love their work and it shows- Caroline Crutchley
It was in 1354 that Pietro IV populated the city of Alghero with people from Catalonia. To this day, it has a Spanish feel and I could hear Catalan being spoken in the old areas. The mix of Spanish and Italian is unique. Three imposing towers still ring the defensive bastions.
The pristine waters of the Mediterranean give up the bountiful harvest of fish to the fishermen of Alghero. From the ancient town walls to Capo Caccia, the fishermen (pescatori di corallo) search for more than fish. Below the waves lives a precious bounty that provides Alghero with its own ‘red gold’.
The full history was unfurled before me at the Coral Museum on Via XX Settembre. The shops were bursting at the seams with coral jewellery that might not all be real.
Since the 13th century, the Artisan School is where young apprentices learnt the art of coral carving. It is as hard as our own teeth and many of the tools used could so easily come from a dentist’s clinic. Young 12-year-olds work for five years without wages, perfecting their art.
The coral was revered across the Mediterranean and Arabian peninsula, and Alghero became a wealthy town. In the shops of the artisan workers such as Costa and Agostino Marogna, where Sarah explained the work to me, traditional sulasu pieces lay alongside ultra-modern designs in the glass showcases, exquisitely crafted.
Silver, gold and blue precious stones are added to complement the red coral. Each artisan piece is unique. Sarah painstakingly took me through qualities, colours and types. The darker the colour, the larger and well-matched in size the beads – the costlier the price. About €2,000 will buy a well-graded bead necklace. Eight-millimetre beads are the largest and that will set you back €2,600 for a necklace alone. A matching set of earrings, ring and brooch would soon break my bank. Sculptures, boxes and cufflinks for the man will send the credit card into meltdown.
The fine carving done with dentist tools produces jewellery that was way above my means. The Japanese love the work and are avid buyers.
The Alghero artisans of coral love their work and it shows in the stunning works of art.
The walled city is still intact with alleys and walkways along the sea. The multicoloured dome of St Michael’s church sparkled above the buildings. Much like Mdina, it has not lost its charm.
The new town has evolved with tourism along the coastal area. The warm weather, sandy beaches and clear waters for scuba diving attract mainly wealthy Italians, Scandinavians and Germans. It is a gem waiting to be discovered.
Twenty-four kilometres by bus, the Neptune’s Grotto is found in the rock cliffs of Capo Caccia. The 20-minute walk down carved steps to the caves is worth it.
The guide took us into chambers exquisitely carved by the forces of nature.
Lamarmora Lake is a large salt-water area within the entrance and considered the largest in Europe. Each limestone creation has its own name.
After 30 minutes, it was time to make the excruciating journey upwards. At the top is a visitor’s café to quench your thirst. In the summer months, a boat will take you to the caves to save the steps, but at a price.
Here, the temperature is between 16˚C and 18˚C, with 45 per cent humidity all year round. A new cave called the Emerald that has Neolithic paintings of wild horses and the famous albino donkeys has been found.
The whole area is a nature reserve, well maintained with camping and animal and bird-watching areas. There are wild donkeys, deer and 75 species of birds.
Useful information
Stay at Azienda Agricola Antonella Leda d’Ittiri, an agritourism with a difference. The house with five luxury rooms had views over the vines. Enjoy morning walks and afternoon wine-tastings with an evening meal. www.margallo.it.
Calchinadas B&B, in the nearby village of Olmedo, is for those on a budget. In town, you can also rent a room in a home at Alghero 4U and have the luxury of a garden and a kitchen to share.
As there are over five million sheep in Sardinia, I expected to find lamb on the menu. Sweet, tender and cooked in a tomato-based sauce, it was the best I had ever tasted.
The sea urchin, a local delicacy is eaten in many restaurants in the springtime. Sardinian suckling pig – porcheddu – is also popular in summer. Cooked over wood, the meat tastes smoky and sweet.
Travelling from Alghero, there are towns to the south to explore, and Sassari is just a short train ride away. Piccolo Club in Sassari had a €25 set menu, including five starters, a pasta and main course, and red wine.
The Aga Khan came to this pristine emerald coastline, fell in love, bought land and turned it into a rich man’s paradise.
With Ryanair and Easyjet flying into the nearby airport, this is not a rich man’s destination anymore. Travel outside the peak summer season and it is well within the pocket’s reach.