Finding a restaurant that serves an eclectic, contemporary menu in a soothing ambience is a rarity in itself. And finding one that somehow combines this with near-perfect service and with pre- and post-dinner cocktails to kill for, making for one hell of a package, is pretty much the Holy Grail for foodies.
I recently found the Holy Grail at Taro, the flagship fine-dining restaurant of Le Méridien St Julian’s Hotel & Spa. Situated on the same floor as the lobby of the hotel, but tucked away discreetly and overlooking the beautiful Balluta Bay, Taro is probably one of the island’s best-kept secrets.
Well, not any more. I was there on the occasion of the launch of the new menu, the creation of head chef Ryan Galea and his team of culinary whizzes, to sample a luscious array of the menu’s newest additions. But not before kicking off the evening with a stunning rosewater and vodka cocktail, as smooth as it was pretty. The mixologists at Taro know their stuff, and the cocktail tickled our appetite and hit the right spot to help us unwind before the evening kicked off properly.
A word about the menu, before moving on to the food itself. Taro’s kitchen brigade prides itself on catering for every food requirement or allergy – whether you are following a gluten-free diet or you are vegetarian, there will be options on offer, and sumptuous ones at that. Specific food requirements are not treated as an afterthought, but as offering potential for even more experimentation.
We started off with a smoked cheese custard with white onion soup – delicate, but with a definite kick thanks to the smoked cheese – and a USDA beef tartar, served with cured yolk, mushroom ketchup and taro tea that literally melted in the mouth. I personally guarantee the ‘literally’ part.
Probably one of the island’s best-kept secrets
Some sips of wine later, we were ready for some roasted celeriac risotto (served with pig sausage crumble, this provided a really interesting take) and the homemade ricotta gnocchi, with morel mushrooms and prepared with aged beef lardo. I tasted both, and was not quite sure which I preferred. Both dishes left a certain satisfying heartiness, without being too overpowering.
A cleansing of the palate with a freshly-prepared melon sorbet, and we were ready for our mains. We tried the seared venison – served medium-rare and accompanied by carrots, passion-fruit gel and cacao jus. The translation, to put it inelegantly, is deer with chocolate. Perhaps a strange sounding combination, but oh-so-luscious. This was the revelation of the night, for me. We also enjoyed the winter vegetables mille-feuille, a medley of perfectly-married flavours, drizzled in some kind of heavenly sauce.
By now we had finished our lovely wine so, of course, we just had to try another cocktail as we waited for our desserts. Seriously, they take cocktail making to a new level here, and not taking advantage would be a crime. This time round we decided to go for a fantastically-confectioned vodka and cookie-based cocktail, the strength of the vodka disguised under a smooth chocolate-and-biscuit mix that could have easily passed for an adult dessert.
But we wanted real dessert too, of course. And lots of it, so we sampled mini portions of white chocolate and berry fondant, served with spiced stout sponge and strawberry sorbet; a ginger and coconut opera torte served with coconut jelly and Alphonso fruit ice; and an almond and mandarin, pistachio and polenta dacquoise. All delicate flavours, each ingredient perfectly balancing off the other in a triumphant ending to this lovely dinner.
www.taro-restaurant.com
Head chef Ryan Galea adding a few last touches.