Is there anything nicer than a ripe, juicy, furry peach? I don’t think so – except perhaps another ripe, juicy, furry peach. We are very fortunate in Malta in that, like most local fruit and vegetables, peaches go from tree to trader in the least possible time without the necessity of refrigerated air or sea miles – but I do have to say that this year’s dark-skinned imports have been particularly good. We eat them as a dessert fruit until the novelty wears off, then I start looking for things to do with the pile still sitting in the fruit bowl.
Americans tend to cook peaches rather than eat them as they are, and they are justly famous for their peach pies and cobblers, crunches and crisps.
The British equivalent of the last two would be an old-fashioned crumble, and that’s what I usually start with. It’s irresistible served warm with a big spoonful of vanilla ice cream melting on top.
Baked stuffed peaches are also irresistible. Marzipan used to be a favourite for stuffing, often mixed with Disaronno Amaretto, but I found that too much of a good thing.
Instead, I use crushed amaretti biscuits, then bake the peaches in a puddle of sweet sherry; however, you could also use Marsala or sweet wine or, better still, Vin Santo if you can find it.
I like to add fruit to summer salads and salsas. Peaches and fresh mozzarella cheese with a handful of fancy lettuce leaves and a honey-mustard dressing make for a nice simple starter or light lunch. And peaches mixed with tomatoes and cucumber are a good combination for a salsa. Add a green chilli for a touch of spice and some lime juice for sharpness and you have a perfect accompaniment to grilled salmon.
And why not award yourself a cooling and refreshing peachy ‘sundowner’ like a classic Bellini, made with peach nectar and sparkling wine? It’s perfect for a warm evening. Or for something a little stronger, how about a Southern Peach?
Put a measure of Southern Comfort, a measure of peach Schnapps (or brandy with a splash of peach nectar) and a measure of cream into a cocktail shaker, add a dash of Angostura bitters and a handful of ice, give it a shake, then strain into a cocktail glass. Decorate with a slice of fresh peach and enjoy. Salute!
Peach and mozzarella salad with honey mustard dressing
Serves 4
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp mayonnaise
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1½ tbsp honey
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Salt and ground black pepper
4 large ripe peaches
4 handfuls salad leaves
2 x 250g packs fresh mozzarella cheese
2 tbsp toasted pine nuts
Put the olive oil, mayonnaise, vinegar and honey into a screw-top jar. Add the mustard and season with salt and pepper, then put the lid on the jar and give it a good shake.
Halve, stone and thickly slice the peaches. Put a handful of salad leaves on each of four plates and divide the peaches among them.
Drain the mozzarella, tear it into pieces, then scatter the cheese over the salad.
Spoon the dressing over, sprinkle with the toasted nuts and a grind of black pepper and serve.
Peach and pecan crumble
Serves 4
1kg fresh peaches, stoned and peeled
1 tbsp lemon juice
3 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp cornflour
120g plain flour
½ tsp ground cinnamon
90g demerara sugar
90g butter
30g porridge oats
60g pecan nuts, chopped
Preheat the oven to 190°C. Slice the peaches into a large bowl and mix with the lemon juice. Mix the sugar and cornflour together, sprinkle it over the peaches, mix well, then put the peaches into a deep pie dish.
Sift the flour and cinnamon into a bowl, add the sugar, rub in the butter until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs, then stir in the oats and chopped nuts. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the peaches and bake for about 40 minutes until the top is golden brown and the filling is bubbling up round the sides. Serve warm with ice cream.
Grilled salmon with peach salsa
Serves 4
2 small peaches, halved, stoned and peeled
2 tomatoes, peeled and deseeded
10-centimetre piece hothouse cucumber
4 spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
Grated rind and juice of 1 lime
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tsp caster sugar
Olive oil
Salt and coarsely ground black pepper
4 pieces salmon fillet, about 200g each
Cut the peaches and tomatoes into small dice and put them into a bowl. Halve the cucumber lengthways and scrape out the seeds, then cut it into dice and add it to the peaches, together with the spring onions and chilli.
Mix the rind and juice of the lime in a small bowl with the garlic, sugar and a tablespoon of olive oil. Season well with salt and pepper, pour it over the peach mixture and toss it all together. Cover with cling film and chill until ready to serve.
Preheat the grill and line the grill pan with foil. Run your fingers lightly over the salmon and pull out any bones with tweezers.
Put the fish in the grill pan, brush generously with olive oil and sprinkle with pepper. Grill until the fish is opaque and flakes easily when tested with the point of a knife (about eight to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish).
Serve on warm plates with the salsa and some crunchy sautéed potatoes.
Baked amaretti peaches
Serves 6
60g small amaretti biscuits
30g butter
30g caster sugar
1 egg yolk
Sweet sherry or wine
6 large peaches
Crushed amaretti biscuits and whipped cream to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Put the amaretti into a plastic bag and roughly crush them with a rolling pin.
Cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl and stir in the amaretti, egg yolk and a tablespoon of sherry.
Halve the peaches and remove the stones, then scoop out the ‘stringy’ bits from the centre of each one. Fill the peach hollows with teaspoons of the mixture, dividing it equally.
Stand the peaches in a buttered baking dish and sprinkle a few drops of sherry over them, then pour four tablespoons of sherry and 100ml of water into the dish.
Bake for about 25 minutes, or until the peaches are tender. Serve warm or at room temperature with a spoonful of the cooking juices spooned over, and with whipped cream and a sprinkling of crushed amaretti.