Ever since I savoured the excellent cuisine at the Ambasciata d’Abruzzo in the Parioli district in Rome, I was immediately captivated by what English novelist Lawrence Durrell calls “The spirit of place”.
One of the most exciting routes is known as Hannibal’s Trail, leading you to wild and remote parts of the Laga mountains- Lino Bugeja
To explore this unspoilt region of Italy has become an obsession, even at my venerable age. It is one of the most environmentally-conscious zones in the whole of the Italian peninsula.
Slowly trudging, albeit laboriously, along the magnificent trails of the Gran Sasso, Italy’s national park, visiting myriad small villages perched perilously on the mountain tops, recently became a reality.
Accompanied by my family, we were based in Val Vomano, which is within easy distance of Teramo, the mediaeval provincial capital; historic Montorio; Castelli, of majolica fame; Monti della Laga park; and Campo Imperatore, the fortified, ‘inaccessible’ forced refuge of Benito Mussolini during World War II.
On the east, the Abruzzo region is bordered by the Adriatic with 130 km of beaches. On the west, by the Apennines, reputedly the most expansive mountainous area in Italy. In fact, 30 per cent of Abruzzo consists of natural reserves and parks. From our base, we could easily reach both the sunny beaches and the snowy heights of the Gran Sasso in less than an hour.
Several excursions to the small towns and villages around Val Vomano revealed an astonishing richness of art, culture, architecture, folklore, cuisine and summer festivals.We also experienced life in the raw when visiting some of the remote villages. Here, time stands still but one experiences genuine hospitality and excellent cuisine with typical pecorino marcetto served with exquisite Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo or Trebbiano wines.
At Castel Castagna, a tiny hamlet with gorgeous views of Gran Sasso, the Romanesque church of Santa Maria di Ronzano is an architectural gem enriched by 12th century frescoes and sacred relics of the same period.
On the outskirts of Montorio al Vomano, I could admire the 15th-century Franciscans’ Church and Convent, badly damaged in the recent earth-quake; nearby lay the Roman ruins and the temple dedicated to Hercules.
In the shadow of the high Apennine chain lies the tiny village of Castelli. Its specific attraction is the evocative majolica (ceramic) ceiling of San Donato church.
Nestled between mountain peaks, near the high plateau of Campo Imperatore, Castel del Monte, still in its pristine state, located in the heart of the Gran Sasso, commands a superb view of the surrounding landscape cloaked by pine, oak and chestnut. Its strongly fortified access rivals Malta’s.
Another touch of home, on the vast plains of the Gran Sasso, were a number of corbelled huts identical to our giren. This zone is ideal for those who love trekking or the outdoors.
On easy paths in the Laga mountains, one finds huts equipped with all amenities, where one can picnic in the heart of unspoilt wilderness.
One of the most exciting routes is known as Hannibal’s Trail, leading you to wild and remote parts of the Laga mountains.
The Abruzzo mountains beckon as I yearn for the exquisite smell of roasted chestnuts in late autumn. Hopefully, I will shortly be there on a gastronomic trip in search of lost flavours, tracking down dishes and sweets of the past.