The first thing that hits you when you step off the plane at Denpasar’s Ngurah Rai Airport is the permeating smell of burning sandalwood which surrounds you like a cloud of sensual perfume, hovering over your olfactory senses throughout your stay on Bali.
When you step out of the secure tourist bubble on the isle of the gods, you discover that the true spirit of Bali is still alive- Moyra Sammut
No less sensual is the beautiful, lush and verdant terraced landscape that will have your heart beating 10 to the dozen as your eyes feast on a canvas that changes its colours with each step you take.
The first time I went there, nothing prepared me for the open friendliness of the Balinese. They just bend over backwards to accommodate you and you can’t miss the bright and straight-toothed smile that every Balinese seems to have plastered across their faces.
I made friends with a sweet young man called Putu (there are quite a few Putus on the island) who proceeded to tell me a little about the history of Bali.
Bali has a unique heritage and culture and it has been inhabited for a long time. Sembiran, a village in northern Bali, was believed to have been home to Ice Age people, proven by the discovery of stone axes and adzes.
Further discoveries of more sophisticated stone tools, agricultural techniques and basic pottery at Cekik in Bali’s far west pointed to people of the Neolithic era.
Bali was busy with trade from as early as 200 BC. The prasasti, or metal inscriptions, Bali’s earliest written records from the ninth century, show a significant Buddhist and Hindu influence, especially in the statues, bronzes and rock-cut caves around Mount Kawi and Gajah Cave.
Balinese society was pretty sophisticated by about 900. The marriage of Balinese King Udayana to East Java’s Princess Mahendratta is captured in a stone carving in the Pura Korah Tegipan in the Batur area. Since then Bali has come a long way and tourism is its main source of income.
So, as I eventually discovered through Putu, it isn’t just the gorgeous beaches, amazing food and beautiful surroundings that are the main attractions of the island.
History aside, your first destination upon arrival is recommended to be Sanur Beach. Through repeated experience, I would avoid the Kuta area unless you are a party animal. Kuta is a crazy place of pub crawlers who get inebriated to the point of oblivion; not a pleasant sight when they move around in large droves.
Once away from the Denpasar and Kuta areas your holiday really begins. Sanur is a pretty place with the obligatory coconut groves and white sandy beaches with plenty of stalls lining them.
These sell anything from sarongs and flip-flops, to wood carvings from the Ramayana and batiks.
The stall vendors will try their hardest to sell you their wares and at times their persistence can become annoying. However, remember they are just trying to make a living and it’s expected of you to barter (good naturedly may I add) for your goods; around a quarter of the price they are asking should be about right.
There are food markets and stalls all over the island and Sanur is a good place to start your culinary experience. Most food stalls sell the staple nasi goring, a wonderful concoction of rice, spices and chicken fragrant with soy; or bakmi goring, a steaming mound of noodles with prawns and chicken. But the piece de resistance is babi guling which is slow-roasted suckling pig coated in fragrant spices.
Not to be missed are the massage ladies hovering under the shade of coconut trees on the beach, who for a few rupees will pummel and knot you into shape.
After spending a short time in Sanur, a trip to Tanah Lot is recommended.
Tanah Lot Temple is located 30 km west of Denpasar town and about 11 km south of Tabanan town. The temple is built on a three-acre offshore rock
It is very famous among travellers because of its spectacular view of the sunset. In some nooks of coral reef surrounding Tanah Lot Temple there are the ‘holy’ snakes resplendent in their black and white colours which, according to local beliefs, are the guardians of the temple against bad luck.
Your real journey begins as you leave Sanur either by Gimni jeep or a bemo (a curious contraption which looks like a motorised tricycle) and head northwards in the direction of Ubud.
Along the way, a stop at Monkey Forest in Sangeh is a must. These mischievous little animals will scamper off with anything they can nab from unsuspecting tourists. They are very fast and partial to peanuts and bananas, as well as the odd shiny camera, so watch out.
They are revered as guardians of the Hindu Dalem Agung Temple, which is right in the middle of Monkey Forest and worth exploring.
After Monkey Forest you are just minutes away from Ubud. And what a fine place it is, jam packed with the best of Balinese culture.
As you arrive from the quiet, dense forest you are struck with a hum of locals going about their work, mostly preparing food. Sarong-wearing vendors on bicycles piled high with plastic accoutrements meander along the streets.
Gamelan music from the local gamelan school drifts in the air around shops and stalls chock-full of ornate teak carvings, batik artists laying bright coloured reams of cloth in the sun, mask-makers painting the aggressive masks of the Ramayana and the village women preparing food.
Ubud is surrounded by rice paddies as far as the eye can see and there is nothing more spiritual or peaceful than an exploratory walk through the rice fields listening to nature’s music.
There are a couple of great museums in Ubud: the Arma Museum, which houses some fine examples of Balinese art, and the Neka Museum, which houses a fine collection of art reflecting local culture, such as carved statues, masks, wayang kulit puppets and a multitude of paintings.
There is also a fantastic night market just outside Ubud that is definitely worth a visit.
There is nothing more spiritual or peaceful than an exploratory walk through the rice fields listening to nature’s music- Moyra Sammut
When you peel back the veneer and step out of the secure tourist bubble on the isle of the gods, you discover that the true spirit of Bali is still alive. One of the most enjoyable ways to connect with the foundations of a culture that goes back several thousand years is a visit to a night market.
In the mauve twilight of Sukawati night market, families gather to eat delicacies such as babi guling, sweet cakes, chicken and coconut balls, fried bananas, tempeh and tofu. Gianyar city is just 10 km north-east of Ubud, but decades away in time. It’s a flight of imagination back into the mystery and magic of the East.
Away from rambunctious Gyanyar, the road to Lovina and Singaraja takes you through forested mountains where the temperature drops dramatically.
It is here that I got my first taste of Arak wine made from palm sugar. It tastes something like fizzy whisky; but beware, this stuff is lethal and there is nothing worse than a hangover from a stint on the Arak.
The dolphins of Lovina beach are a huge attraction. An early start is needed to catch these playful animals ducking and diving through the waves. This normally means taking a jukung boat out to the reef and waiting for the first of them to show, which they do like clockwork.
Back on the beach you will find no shortage of locals offering massages or ornate Ramayana carvings; in truth even the most rudimentary of these carvings are beautiful and worth the few rupees they cost.
Lovina is dotted with Balinese art stalls and they make for a very colourful roadside show. On the main road, between Jalan Binaria and Jalan Rambutan, some of the best artists display their works.
Singaraja still retains some of the old colonial feel. The streets are wider and grander than elsewhere in Bali and some of the old houses set in large gardens recall days long gone.
This is a noticeably multiethnic city. The Muslim influence is especially apparent in the district near the old docks called Kampung Arab, and the largest Chinese temple in Bali is located here.
Air Sanih is a quaint, tiny coastal village with a notable cold spring bathing area set in nice gardens.
The spring water is said to originate from holy Lake Batur. The springs are very popular with local children, and can get noisy. Don’t let that put you off though; this is a very charming spot.
Gitgit Waterfalls are on the northern slopes of the central mountain range and there are three falls around Gitgit village. When travelling south from Singaraja to Bedugul you cannot miss the signs and car parks for the falls.
The best is the southernmost one which drops about 50 metres. It’s possible to bathe in the cool and fresh mountain waters.
Next, head to Candidasa on the north-east coast, which boasts spectacular volcanic terrain and lush forest. Candidasa rests on a lagoon with pristine white beaches and lovely traditional cottages.
Before long it’s time to head home, taking with you images and fragrances imprinted on your soul... for that is what Bali does.
Moyra Sammut is travel manager at Sullivan&Sullivan.