Travelling to the flatlands in the north-east of Holland, I found that spring was in the air with the green shoots just showing. The North Sea wind had a nip but this did not deter me from tiptoeing through the tulips.
The famous flower festival and parade is a rainbow of colours and rainfall of petals- Caroline Crutchley
The tiny town of Lisse was a settlement as far back as the 10th century, where the local population cut peat and grew food on the flat, sandy land.
It became a bulb-growing area later, bringing prosperity to the area. Great estates were lost and trees felled in the quest for more land.
Only the gardens of the Keukenhof estate remain. These are among the most visited gardens in the world during the March to May open season.
The famous flower festival and parade is a rainbow of colours and rainfall of petals, and the auction houses export bulbs to all corners of the world.
Lisse is charming and often unvisited by the coach-loads of day-trippers from Amsterdam.
Keukenhof castle still stands and is open all year round.
The quest for the first black tulip has been an ongoing battle between local growers and the Museum De Zwarte Tulp is worth visiting to learn the history of this unusual mission.
Keukenhof means ‘kitchen garden’ and Countess Jacqueline hunted in the grounds next to her fortress home ‘Teylingen’, where she grew vegetables and herbs in her quieter moments.
A bicycle offers the best way to see the countryside and flowers in full bloom.
At the entrance to Keukenhof Gardens, I found Kees van Dam and his bike rental business. Even tandems for two are available. Although I hadn’t ridden for so long, I plucked up the courage to pay the €8.50 two-hour rental fee. With a joke and a little lesson on braking, Kees sent me on my way.
Using the provided route map, I set off in a rather wobbly fashion on the cycleway. It was hair-raising when a competent biker came towards or behind me.
You can choose your own way; I headed for the bulb fields to the north. De Zilk and Bennebroek villages whizzed past as peddled.
I cycled along a waterway and stopped for a banana and drink from my pannier. If you are fitter than me, make the trip to the North Sea sand dunes and Noordwijk Beach, stopping to marvel at old windmills and men bowed along endless rows of tulips. Picking tulips seems to be back-breaking work.
When I decided to make my way back, I was peddling into a setting sun and a biting strong wind. All of a sudden my legs turned to jelly as I peddled over a humped bridge – the only incline for miles I’m sure. Time for a rest to take in the view.
Arriving back at base I was quite proud not to have fallen or caused an accident. As bicycles are not allowed within the gardens, I returned it to ever smiling Kees.
I asked ‘do you ever lose anyone?’ A tour guide stepped forward and said his group were an hour overdue, and they weren’t answering their phones. So I was pleased with myself to have come back unscathed.
The €14.50 entrance fee to Keukenhof Gardens is steep, but you must see the bright, labour-intensive displays. With demonstrations and theme days throughout the opening months, there is a lot to see. Four hours passed without a care in the world.
If the weather is poor head for the indoor displays. There are even photography workshops with expert snappers on hand to help you get that perfect flower picture. With over 4.5 million tulips, you won’t have a problem finding static subjects.
Around seven million bulbs are planted by hand in this area.
There is even a Walk of Fame where all the bulbs have names of famous people. I’m not there yet – but if I was the flower would have to be red.
Keukenhof Gardens close on May 20 and the Flower Parade of the Bulb takes place on April 21.
There is also a Romantic Roses festival from Thursday until April 10.
Visit www.keukenhof.nl for more information.
Other things to see outside Amsterdam
Haarlem – a town with a heroic story similar to Ann Frank’s. The Ten Boom Family home in Barteljorisstratt has not changed since 1837.
Devoted to God, the home became a safe haven for over 800 souls fleeing the Nazis.
Corrie and Betsie were the ringleaders but on February 28, 1944, they were betrayed and raided by the secret police. Over 30 were arrested and Betsie died in Ravensbruck but Corrie survived the war and died at 91.
Knighted by the Queen of the Netherlands, her book The Hiding Place was a bestseller. A visit to this home run by volunteers is a must.
At Sloten village (bus 192 from central Amsterdam) there has been a working windmill since 1847. Volunteer millers and helpers make this an interesting insight into windmills and country crafts. Molen means ‘mill’ in Dutch so ask for Molen van Sloten.
Enjoy the mad orange party across the country that is Queens Day on April 30.
Getting there
Fly direct to Amsterdam with Air Malta or Eindhoven with Ryanair. Keukenhof Gardens can be reached by bus from Amsterdam Schiphol airport on the number 58 bus. From Eindhoven, take the train to Schiphol airport and board the bus.