Why is it that some of the best preserved and grandest Greek structures are not found in Greece itself? Perhaps the Greek settlers wanted to impress the local inhabitants of foreign lands with their skills.

The magnitude of its size was awe-inspiring and seeing it floodlit at night even more so- Caroline Crutchley

Libya is home to some of the best, but northern neighbours Sicily, the largest island of the Mediterranean Sea, holds many treasures too.

Syracuse and Taormina have amphitheatres, but it is on the south-western coast in Agrigento that you will find the famed Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi).

These sturdy, Doric-style temples are built in the style used in mainland Greece, including in the famous Acropolis and Parthenon. They are fine examples of the order and harmony for which Greek architecture is renowned.

The city of Akragas was founded in a fertile area by Greek colonists from neighbouring Gela around 580 BC. Settling on the high ridge for safety, the river below flowed to the port and was rich in crabs.

The history of Akragas was one of constant change; it was besieged and set on fire by the Carthaginians, who would then become close allies in 406 BC. The Romans took over in 210 BC and renamed it Agrigentum, but their rule was characterised by periods of alternating fortunes.

During the Arab time the now large population was moved from the temples area to the Girgenti Hill. This is where modern Agrigento now stands.

The city achieved political importance during Norman rule from 1087, and its bishop seat was restored. New and important buildings such as the cathedral and other fortifications were erected across the territory. Agrigento also grew economically, thanks in large part to important commercial relationships with North African countries.

Today, the mostly modern city looks down on a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of the great legacies of the ancient Greeks: the Valley of the Temples, a dramatic testimony to Agrigento’s glorious past.

Driving off the coast road, my first sight was of the Temple of Concord, beautifully perched on a red sandstone ridge. The magnitude of its size was awe-inspiring and seeing it floodlit at night even more so.

The parade of well-preserved Doric-style temples, dating back to the fifth and sixth centuries BC, sits isolated in splendour between Agrigento and the sparkling sea.

From the historic centre of Agrigento buses go to the Valley of Temples archaeological area and nearby towns, beaches and villages. The Museo Archeologico lies between the town and the archaeological site, and has a wide range of exhibits from the area worth seeing, including statues and burial artefacts.

The archaeological park itself is split into two sections, divided by the road. At the entrance you will find the ticket office, souvenir stands, a bar and restrooms.

Reductions from the normal €10 entry fee are offered for those under 18 and over 65, as long as they are carrying proof of age. Keep your entrance ticket throughout your visit as you will need it to get through various turnstiles.

Prepare to spend at least three hours wandering through history. I stepped back in time through the Fifth Gate, one of the grandest entrances, with fortification towers guarding the ancient city. The sanatorium and the temple of Dioscuri lie to the left.

I walked uphill towards the shade of the ancient olive and citrus garden of Kolimbetra, which acted as a water collection point for the community. Remains of the ancient agora are found near to the entrance to the area of Zeus.

The local calcarenite stone was used to build Temple of Giove. An imposing base was constructed to support the Doric columns and half columns.

Unfortunately, in later times the local people reused these massive stones for constructions elsewhere. In 1740, blocks were removed to use as foundation stones for the dock in Empedode port. Displays in the museum show the size and form of 38 gigante which once supported the temple.

The temple itself is now just a jumble of large stones but it was once the largest known Greek temple in the world. One giant atlas figure now lies sadly prostrate on the ground.

In the Temple of Ercole area you can spot grooves in the stony ground. What seem like cart ruts are, in fact, part of a clever water collection system.

A second entrance across the road leads into the higher Collina dei Templi area, home to the most complete of the temples. The first is the Temple of Heracles, the oldest of the temples still standing, dating to around 500 BC.

The temple of Concord is the most intact and dates from 430 BC. It was converted by the Christian Bishop Gregorio into a basilica. Two pagan idols in the temple were obliterated and since one of them was called Raps, the church was later consecrated as St Gregorio of the Rape.

Greek walls run alongside the temples in this area and a sunken garden is a reminder that this was once a living town. The Romans added rock cut catacombs in later times.

The modern art and multimedia centre and the installations placed within the temples seem somewhat incongruous at this ancient site, 120 metres above sea level.

Tempio di Giunone, now consisting of a number of columns, is at the farthest point on the ridge. From this vantage point a panoramic view of a patchwork of fields undulates towards the coastline.

Resting under an ancient olive tree, I sat on a bench and contemplated the commitment the Greeks made to their gods. Their efforts on behalf of their faith were only surpassed by their efforts and skills in town planning. And here, in this small corner of Sicily, lies a stunning example.

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