As the centenary of Dylan Thomas’s birth approaches, Kevin Pilley stays at a stylish Welsh hotel that was once the writer’s favourite watering hole.
Browns Hotel has changed a lot since the celebrated poet Dylan Malais Thomas used to “moulder” in the corner of the bar, scribbling on the back of Woodbine packets and cadging anything he could.
But mainly downing Felinfoel beer. And acquiring national treasure status. Clocking up a bar tab of £550 at the time of his death in 1953.
Its 14 rooms now offer Wi-Fi, digital radio, complimentary hair dryers, an LCD HD television, as well as “organic natural mattresses and crisp white linen adorning lovingly made beds”. The pub in Laugharne, Carmarthenshire, in south west Wales, one hour from Swansea, has even become a designated non-smoking zone.
And gone boutique. A sign bearing a portrait of the famous Welsh poet and alleged dissolute hangs outside. When the wind blows he shakes his head and seems a little confused by the bijou makeover which has turned his beloved boozer into a business rendezvous, offering “a complete conferencing experience”.
In time for the centenary of his birth next year, many events are planned.
Originally built in 1752 as a private house, Thomas’s favourite pub has recently been refurbished and reopened. What he would have thought of the thick cushions and throws; fluffy bathroom robes; organic paint; the mao feng green tea and peppermint tummy tonic; the wall art photographs; ‘authentic’ cupboards; marble-tiled showers; ergonomically-challenging baths; and the retro Born Free and Dennis Wheatley books in the rooms, is open to wonder. But he may have been pleased with the “era-defining” room names. His wake was held in Browns and he gave the pub’s telephone number as his own.
The suites are called Llareggub, the mythical fishing village in his 1954 Under Milk Wood; Corran (the name of the river), Fernhill, The Strand ( a tribute to the township’s cockling days) and The Barks, the name of the walk along the Welsh coastal path to the shed where he allegedly worked, living in the “sea-shaken” boathouse overlooking “the mussel-pooled and heron-priested shore” of the Taf Estuary with his wife and three children for the last four years of his life.
The locals always have a good time every day and make sure visitors do too
In the front room you hear him reading his poems out of a period wireless. There is a signed doodle of a ship. There are also a pair of crutches.
“They belonged to his mother, Florrie,” Helen informed me. “Apparently she fell into a bus inspection pit.”
Helen Pulman-Slater, a psychiatric nurse from Dorset, works in the gift shop selling everything from Dylan Thomas mugs andcufflinks, to Dylan Thomas ponchos. She also helps clean the shed. “It’s very dusty and we have to change around the crumpled papers and beer bottles every week.”
There is also a Thomas Birthday Walk. If it’s your birthday and you can prove it, you are entitled to a free pint at the Cross Inn (if open) and free chips at the chippie inthe square.
The Owl and the Pussycat is probably the best place to eat, and the Dressed Crab is considered a speciality.
Thomas is buried in St Martin’s Church up King Street. Walking tours are also available around Swansea where he was born. You can also visit and stay overnight in his birthplace at 5, Cwmdonkin Drive. Both Tenby and New Quay have their own Thomas trails.
But everyone gravitates to his second home, Browns, now run by Andy Farrell and his forbearing team.
The locals always have a good time and make sure visitors do too. As long as you give as good as you get.
All toast Thomas. For what he did, has done and is doing still for the area.
Laugharne remains how he remembers it. “Beautiful. Barmy.”
“One of the strangest towns in Wales.”
And certainly one of the friendliest. Especially if you are in the chair.
For more information
www.browns-hotel.co.uk; tel: +44 (0)1994 4276 88
www.dylanthomasboathouse.com
For Dylan Thomas Swansea Walking Tours: tel. +44 (0)7817 7533 76; anniefromswansea@gmail.com
www.dylanthomasbirthplace.com