In the summer of 1977, Bruno Kovarich – originally from Verona – purchased 550 hectares of southern Tuscan land in Poggio Foco with the money he made from selling linen to the most beautiful hotels in Italy.
Explore the uncontaminated area without a precise objective- Michel Rizzo
Isolated and remote, Poggio Foco had been abandoned for over a century. Was this simply an investment, an escape or a new way to see the world for Bruno Kovarich?
Fast forward to Ettore Kovarich – Bruno’s son – who together with his wife Ida has for a number of years been running Poggio Foco, an organic farm and country house majestically set in the region of Maremma, considered by many to be one of Tuscany’s best kept secrets.
Getting to Poggio Foco is relatively trouble-free. Hop onto a quick flight to Rome’s Fiumicino airport, pick up a rented car and within one-and-a-half hours – driving along the motorway past Civitavecchia – you will find yourself in Maremma, right on the border with Lazio.
Poggio Foco offers accommodation in lovely self-catering apartments, all furnished with tasteful antiques.
The farmhouse consists of five stone buildings, all constructed using as much of the building’s old material as possible. Besides its bedrooms, each apartment boasts a living room with fireplace and television; a kitchen, a bathroom and its own private outdoor area.
At Poggio Foco, you’re sure to leave your bad eating habits behind. The farm’s restaurant (open only on Wednesdays and Saturdays) offers a menu based on traditional Tuscan dishes, all made using the farm’s own grown produce.
Guests can make use of a play area for children and a panoramic swimming pool surrounded by a lush garden. The pool has recently been equipped with a solar-based water heating system that ensures a pleasant temperature during most months of the year.
A stay at Poggio Foco – a minimum of one week is recommended – will enable visitors to explore by car the interior of Maremma.
Incredibly uninhabited, the region is still relatively unknown to mass tourism, making it a perfect choice if you’re looking for an ‘off the beaten path’ Tuscany.
In truth, the entire area does feel like a land populated by elves and fairies, where you will be tempted to explore the uncontaminated area without a precise objective, letting yourself be carried away by the raw beauty of the surrounding landscapes, strewn with majestic oaks and olive trees that seem to stretch as far as the eye can see.
Wandering along the pathways that meander through the countryside, you will discover remarkable traces of history – evocative Etruscan necropolises, elegant Roman villas, mysterious-looking medieval towns.
To all this, add the region’s great culinary delights, remarkable wines, and above all, great hospitality, and it won’t take long to conclude that Maremma is truly one of the most stunning corners of Tuscany, if not of all of Italy.
Day trips
Manciano – only 20 minutes from Poggio Foco, this scenic town has been nicknamed the ‘spy of Maremma’ because from here one can view the surrounding territories in every direction.
Encased behind its strong walls are an imposing 15th-century Sienese castle and narrow alleys with quaint houses embellished with decorative motifs.
Saturnia – Its fame is linked to its hot, therapeutic springs, whose sulfurous waters gush all year round at a temperature of 37.5°C.
The springs are divided between two main sites: the freely-accessible pools with waterfalls, and the Terme di Saturnia Spa and Golf Resort, an extremely up-market wellness hotel that is an oasis of relaxation, with open-air hot spring swimming pools, waterfalls, jacuzzis, saunas, hydromassage and mud treatments. The resort also comes equipped with a professional 18-hole golf course.
Pitigliano – constructed on sheer tufa cliffs (soft volcanic stone), Pitigliano is a gem of a destination. Its magic is best savoured by taking in its historical centre, casually strolling through its narrow, picturesque streets.
For centuries, Pitigliano has been home to a thriving Jewish community, earning it the title of ‘Little Jerusalem’. Today, although the number of Jewish residents has diminished drastically, you can still visit the synagogue and library, the kosher slaughter-house and the matzoth bakery.
Sovana – possessing a vast amount of artistic beauty, Sovana was once a principal Etruscan city. It was reborn in the Middle Ages. The town’s architectural jewel is its cathedral, built in the 9th century. A number of recent restoration projects have brought back its particular evocative atmosphere, making it a favourite destination for academics and tourists alike.
Sorano – this ancient Etruscan town, constructed from dark tufa, stands on a summit that over centuries has weathered to resemble a natural cliff.
It is surrounded by impressive walls and a stern fortress, which over time seems to have merged into the cliff.
Vulci Naturalistic Archeological Park – a unique way of experiencing a complete panorama of an Etruscan and then Roman city, all set in uncontaminated countryside. Many of the ruins and artifacts uncovered during excavations are housed in a museum located in the nearby medieval Castello della Badia.
Le Chiuse – close to Manciano, Le Chiuse is a rural farmhouse run on the same lines as Poggio Foco. Steeped up high against beautiful rolling hills, it comes equipped with its own horse stables, where horse riding courses may be arranged.
Officinali di Montauto (OM) – located in one of the wildest parts of the region, OM is an organic farm where typical Maremma plants are lovingly cultivated. From these same plants, OM has developed its own extracts and essential oils into a full line of natural cosmetics, food supplements and herbal teas.
La Filanda – situated in Manciano, this restaurant cum wine bar serves genuine Tuscan food accompanied by well-priced Maremma wines and extremely friendly service.
For details about a holiday at Poggio Foco in the beautiful region of Maremma, contact P&A Sullivan (Travel and Tourism) on 2133 1313 or visit www.pasullivan.com.mt.