250 g butter
Freshly ground pepper
Nutmeg
1 tbsp flour
150 ml cold water

Melt 75 g butter in a heavy sauce-pan, stir in a little pepper, grated nutmeg and the flour, mixing well with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and gradually stir in the cold water. Heat gently and let the sauce simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the flour is completely cooked.

Then with a wire whisk, whisk in 175 g diced, chilled butter, a piece at a time. At this stage of whisking in the butter, it is best to put the saucepan in another one of hot water to prevent the butter from oiling. Or use a bain marie from the start. If the sauce does, despite all your precautions, begin to separate, then add a dash of very cold water (a teaspoonful will do) to lower the temperature immediately.

Then add your chosen flavouring, savoury as described in the introduction, or sweet. A spoonful or two of cream can be added for a rich sauce. And, of course, rum, caramel, honey, chocolate, liqueur or syrup can be added, and you will have a perfect sauce to serve with puddings, pies and crumbles.

The sauce can be kept at the right temperature for a few hours in a Thermos jug. This quantity is enough for at least eight people, in case you are worried about all that butter.