Androgyny, at the crossroads between masculine and feminine, imposes a new attitude in Chanel’s ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2011/12 collection.

The legendary Chanel jacket, beaded and embroidered, is worn with a men’s tuxedo jacket, or with a sportswear reefer jacket, hybrid and equivocal, or can be worn under a tweed or knitted cape with contrasting colours.

The mood of fatigues-style jumpsuits is shifted, either by sequins or a quilted effect. The jumpsuits are even more dressed up with embroidered lace, while masculine pants are worn cuffed above a naked ankle. Foamy volumes on short sleeves or on the collars of little black dresses are accented by frayed tulle.

Leaves slide over transparent organza overlays, and silk chiffonin hazy colours, and trim cuffs or necklines.

Buttons shine, monogrammed and squared, in metal or glass. Tweeds, draped cashmere, organza, chiffon and satin, and knitted tricot resonate with a dim palette: black, anthracite, multiple greys, silver, green and red.

The masculine shoes are worn with loose socks, almost like gaiters, and are contrasted with slender pointed pumps in crêpe de Chine with an elegant heel, contrasting matte and patent. The jewellery, cuff bracelets, necklaces, brooches with an art nouveau style evoke nature with bursts of light.

The bags in glazed lambskin are captivating, with their constructivist aged-metal clasps, linear quilting, and graphic stitching.