If I was asked to give a definition of a bistro, I would probably describe it as a small, lace-curtained French restaurant, serving unpretentious locally-sourced seasonal food in a warm and comfortable atmosphere. But in reality, anything from a five-star establishment to a back street café can be called a bistro these days.

Nobody seems to be sure where the word originated. It means ‘quick’ in Russian, which leads you to suppose that you could nip into a bistro for a quick bite to eat, but while Larousse Gastronomique acknowledges the possibility that it has a Russian meaning, it states emphatically that it undoubtedly comes from bistrouille, which, in northern France, is a mixture of coffee and brandy. And who are we to argue?

However, I like my definition, and these are some of the dishes I would serve in my bistro.

First and foremost would be mussels, beloved in most establishments whether trendy or otherwise. With a creamy mustard sauce and a crusty baguette or two, they make a superb first course. Add a salad and something for dessert and you have a very satisfying supper. Or you could serve them Belgian-style with frites and mayonnaise.

Then I’d choose chicken. Tuck some tarragon butter under the skin of chicken legs and roast them until they are brown and crunchy, then add some tiny button mushrooms and shallots to the sauce.

Rabbit is a bistro favourite, and it is often served in France with prunes soaked in Armagnac. I would forget the Armagnac and the prunes, flame the rabbit in brandy, and add some vegetables and herbs for a delicious and easy stew or ragoût.

I am not terribly good with little bones, so I trim off the small ribby bits and belly flaps and add them to some wine, herbs and a dissolved beef cube to make a flavourful stock.

I am sure petit salé aux lentilles, or pork belly with lentils, wouldn’t be given a second glance if it was on the menu of a smart bistro, but after Rick Stein cooked it on his BBC French Odyssey series, it now pops up everywhere.

Actually, I’ve always liked pork belly and often cook it – it’s economical and tasty and the fat keeps the meat juicy. I know some people have an aversion to too much fat, but you can always trim some of it off. The big rib bones in belly pork I can manage, but you may prefer to remove them before cooking.

I don’t think any of my recipes would suit the Russian meaning of the word, but I do think they could all be described as ‘Bistro style’.