September has seen devout Muslims again flocking to Albania’s only “burqa beach” after the Ramadan holy month, where women bathe in full hijab – a short distance from the “other” Albania where girls romp in scanty bikinis.

The contrast is not to everyone’s liking but is a testament to Albania’s centuries-old tradition of religious tolerance, which even survived nearly half a century of a communist rule that tried to stamp out all religion.

About two-thirds of this Mediterranean state’s 3.2 million residents are Muslim. Much of the rest is Christian – both Orthodox and Catholic – and co-habitation among the different faiths is the norm in EU-hopeful Albania.

“To each their own,” said Selim, a Muslim who gave only his first name.

But “why do some people think that showing off their buttocks is a sign of civilisation and freedom, while protecting one’s body from other people’s glances is an expression of underdevelopment?” he asked.

Selim sat on a small, remote part of the long stretch of beach in Spille, which lies about 100 kilometres southwest of the capital Tirana.

There is nothing official about the patch, nicknamed burqa beach. It’s been informally claimed by conservative Muslims who do not wish to expose their bodies while bathing, and is the sole spot of its kind on Albania’s lengthy Adriatic and Ionian coastline.

Empty during Ramadan in August when fasting Muslims avoid swimming for fear of swallowing water, “burqa beach” was again busy as temperatures in recent weeks soared into the 30 C and often continue into the next month.

Despite the rarity of such beaches in Europe, the few dozen families who come here resent the fact there are no facilities and that they must walk a half hour from Spille’s main beach to reach the spot.

While most Albanians are Muslims, the majority are moderate. Only a handful of women can be seen in the streets of Tirana with their heads covered, and the consumption of alcohol – prohibited in Islam – is commonplace.

“Islam does not forbid a woman to bathe, but only if she covers herself in a decent way, to protect herself from the looks and please only God,” insisted Fatima, a mother of two emerging from the water in a long black robe.