Watching the Champions League on television gives a rather false impression of what football is like.
The roar of the crowd, the skill of international stars and an epic 60,000-plus-capacity stadium rocking with adrenalin.
Then I turned up at Ta’ Qali Stadium and watched 22 men stumbling over their own feet, 500 spectators yawning and a coach who seemed more interested in a siesta than a motivational team talk.
The only time a player did a step-over was to avoid a pothole.
Stands vibrate from the chanting, flares are a seemingly must-have possession and opposition players are peppered with objects like chicken heads
Finding the televised version of football requires travel. I quickly whittled down my list of holiday destinations to those that had a football club with at least one €10 million star.
And I soon learnt that football is much better in real life than live on television. The atmosphere slowly builds from three hours before kick-off, skill levels seem elevated and glorified and at half-time the man next to me always speaks more sense than the TV pundits.
Passionate and unpredictable, a big football game is one of the world’s unique travel experiences. Of course, each game is different.
But the local differences between each club and crowd make following football an addictive hobby. Each match can be combined with exploring a new city, and each team has the ability to lure us in. So here are our top five football experiences and what to expect.
1. Juventus (Turin, Italy)
Juventus have always had a strong, worldwide following and, judging by the shirts on Malta’s streets, the reigning Italian champions are one of the island’s most popular teams. Their new stadium is located in the borough of Vallette, a hint at some historical links. But forget the romanticism. For the neutral, Juventus is the best Italian football choice because of their crowd. While other big Italian teams rattle around in half-full, 80,000-capacity stadiums, Juventus’s new 41,000-capacity ground is always full.
Spectators almost spill onto the pitch, flags are unfurled and cover whole stands and the chanting starts a long time before kick-off. Those looking for extra excitement should get a ticket in the Curva Scirea, the stand from where the hot-headed Juventus Ultras conduct proceedings.
The team usually responds, and if they don’t, a cacophony of demanding boos rings out. However, his raucousness is a long way from the artisan boulevards of Turin or the serenity of the surrounding Alps. Turin is a gentle, relaxed city that neatly contrasts with the action on the pitch.
2. London
The English Premier League seems to be the one that most ignites our imagination. While Liverpool and Manchester are always worth a visit, no city can compete with London in terms of choice.
On a weekend trip to London, it’s easy to take in two different games. Head to upmarket west London to see Chelsea and placate a non-football, loving partner by leaving them in Harrods or Knightsbridge for three hours.
Or go to north London for Arsenal or Tottenham Hotspur. But English football is about a lot more than the Premier League. While a big team ticket will cost €60+, London has 14 professional teams and for an alternative experience take in the local atmosphere at somewhere like Brentford or Leyton Orient. While the big teams attract fans from around the world, supporters only follow these lower division teams if they were unfortunate to be born within three kilometres of the ground.
Older fans might also like semi-professional Barnet, where Edgar Davids is playing out the remainder of his days.
3. Barcelona
The people’s club has long pulled a romantic string in most football fan’s hearts. Owned by their supporters and refusing to have a shirt sponsor until a few years ago, Barcelona also happen to play the most attractive passing football in the world.
And they always seem to win. A visit to the Camp Nou isn’t going to have the same unpredictability as elsewhere, but what can compare to joining the admiration of 100,000 fans as Barcelona pass another team to death?
The city’s not too bad either. Lounge on the beach all morning, take in the delights of Gaudí’s architecture and then see Lionel Messi score another hat-trick.
Surrounding Europe’s largest stadium is a labyrinth of local bars and restaurants, so arrive early and chomp down some tapas before the tiki-taka starts.
4. Buenos Aires, Argentina
Arguably the fiercest and craziest fans come from Argentina’s capital. Two rival teams divide the city: River Plate, whose fans call themselves Los Millionarios (The Millionaires), and Boca Juniors, located in the working-class suburb of La Boca. Their rivalry is a symbolic battleground between the rich and poor of the city and matches are known to end in violent fights between supporters. This isn’t a game to try and get involved with the most hardcore.
Stands vibrate from the chanting, flares are a seemingly must-have possession and opposition players are peppered with objects like chicken heads. For a non-stop experience of intensity and hostility, nowhere can compare with this rivalry. Just make sure you know which supporters you’re among before you start chanting.
5. Munich, Germany
The recent rise in German domestic football is credited to excellent local coaches and improved competition. But football purists might claim that the return of standing terraces has also played a role. While almost all major European football clubs have all-seater grounds, German teams have dual-purpose stadiums. Terracing is used for domestic games and the stadium literally flips over and becomes seating for European matches.
This terracing has brought back a livelier atmosphere complete with individual songs that can continue for well over five minutes.
These are some of the noisiest and most compelling of European football crowds and beer inside the stadium is often as cheap as the soft drinks. Dortmund have a good team but the city is an ugly, industrial mess. Munich, however, is the Bavarian capital and packed full of historic buildings and museums. Visit during the Oktoberfest beer festival to add an extra dose of drunkenness to the football.