Since the dawn of time, alpha males have developed a mind-buggering array of methods to settle their differences in the most testosterone-fuelled displays of machismo imaginable.

Alas, as the middle ages fizzled out, and society lost its sense of fun and adventure, actually losing life or limb in one such display became rather unfashionable.

Luckily for us though, the addition of money and memorabilia to anything renders that a sport and so we now have the dazzling spectacles of boxing, wrestling, and other sweat-drenched orgies of ‘ultimate’ showdowns.

A winner is declared and he rides the wave of that success until a stronger alpha biped turns up to knock him off his post.

Food writers are not alpha males (and that naturally includes female food writers). For one thing, we never really have differences to settle – at least none that can’t be sorted out by throwing the gauntlet of, “Well, taste it yourself then.”

The other reason is that we like taking things at our own pace and can’t be bothered with rushing anywhere to meet someone and move around a lot.

What we do have, and this is part of the very fabric of our ilk, is an unhealthy dose of inquisitiveness that you could easily call curiosity.

And so, when the tension mounts, we ask each other questions about each other’s dining experiences.

This special edition of The Sunday Times’s restaurant column contains a bit of both Doug’s and Ed’s experiences.

Doug’s picks

Doug picked his top three and we will start with them in no particular order.

Browns, Valletta Waterfront

There is something about the Valletta Waterfront – and I am not talking about the fact that it isn’t actually in Valletta – that just tickles my not inconsiderable fancy. It is one of my favourite spots on the island when it comes to eating out, especially during the peak of summer when the spectacular dining backdrop of the Grand Harbour is enough to make your nipples pointy. It has a way of making whatever you are eating taste even better.

With upwards of a dozen eateries to choose from, there are plenty of options too. On this particular occasion I took the wife and kids to Browns, one of the few remaining places I had not reviewed for this here column. And it went rather well. Good service, good value for money and, at the time at least, they were doing a ‘Mourinho’s Peri-Peri’ chicken that hit all sorts of different spots from a variety of angles.

In terms of relaxed, family meals this was probably my favourite of the year.

Chukkas, Malta Polo Club, Marsa

Chukkas: revisited with success.Chukkas: revisited with success.

Being a restaurant reviewer is much like being on a permanent quest to find your car keys: you know the perfect meal is probably out there somewhere but there is little point in checking in the same place twice. Or the fridge for that matter.

However, once in a while you do get to temporarily abandon your quest and go out just for the pleasure of eating. Which is why I revisited Chukkas in Marsa, this time with my editor in tow desperate to discover why he had heard so many good things about the place.

Once again it more than lived up to expectations. It’s earthy charm and relaxed atmosphere matched only by its friendly service and delightful food. Of course, saying this is the best place on the island for a steak is entirely subjective – everyone has their own personal favourite.

But if anyone ever asks me where they should go to see a piece of meat cooked just the way it would want to be cooked if it had any say in the matter, then I would not hesitate to recommend Chukkas.

Do Brazil, Portomaso Marina, St Julian’s

If I had to define my personal version of heaven, which I do not really but will do for the sake of the argument, then it could very well be sitting down at a table and having someone bring me an endless supply of different meats. Substitute the table for Angelina Jolie covered in lettuce leaves and the definition is possibly complete.

However, unusually attractive Hollywood stars aside, my meal at Do Brazil was as close to carnivorous perfection as I managed in 2011. The system is a simple one. They give you a card, not entirely unlike an old beer mat, and when you are ready to go you flip it to green. What follows is a never-ending stream of beautifully barbecued meats – chicken, pork, sausages, beef – in a process that doesn’t stop until you flip your card back to red.

Of course, quantity is nothing without quality, but this Brazilian-themed restaurant knows a lot about both. I didn’t eat out as much as I would have liked last year – but Do Brazil was undoubtedly top of my personal pops.

Ed’s year

Once again, my year was characterised by a wide variety of food and service quality. Some restaurants stand out and, instead of being orderly and structured like Doug, I haved mentioned a few memorable ones that I would strongly suggest you find the time to visit.

Some are not even restaurants but they serve food and I consider them worthy of special mention.

As you can imagine, I am ‘forced’ to change restaurant every week. When I do have the luxury of visiting a place that I don’t need to review, I pick one of a handful of favourites.

I will start off with the restaurant I have returned to most frequently during the year. Salvino’s in Valletta has, time and time again, served up imaginative food of remarkable quality. This is matched by fantastic service and wine recommendations by Andrew, whose knowledge of wine and food is nothing short of encyclopaedic.

Ristorante Don Serafino always delivers outstanding results.Ristorante Don Serafino always delivers outstanding results.

If signs that the world is coming to an end actually materialise this year, Andrew will have to prepare my last supper. I have, on several occasions, recommended the outstanding Ristorante Don Serafino at the Dragonara Casino. Every time, the lovely Sicilian team has delivered outstanding results.

I love the semi-formal setting and relatively informal service, the degustation menu that allows me to sample most of what the chef wants to impress his diners with, and the interesting variety of wine and beer (do not be afraid to ask for a food and beer match here, they know what they are doing) that’s on the menu. It is pricey but you are getting all you pay for.

Another restaurant in the area has also secured a spot in my little book of restaurants to return to. Sciacca, just outside Paceville, is a little gem in the most unlikely of spots. It places attentive service and a fish-oriented menu into a very well-designed space. I just wish they’d remove the stickers from the glass outside so fewer tourists will notice it but I’m being very selfish.

It is hardly surprising that Doug and I should agree on a couple of restaurants. Chukkas remains a firm favourite and one of the best purveyors of steak Malta has to offer. I have had many a long night there courtesy of Martin’s unique approach to excellent dining that is conveniently matched by a well-stocked bar.

Doug mentioned Browns. I have been to the recently opened Browns Kitchen, just a few vaults down. The first few times I visited I feasted on kangaroo and venison. I popped by last week and a new chef seems to have taken over.

The menu has been reinvented and is now meticulously planned and surprisingly classy, especially considering the other eateries in the area that have opted for decidedly less formal dining.

When I think of Gozo, two restaurants spring to mind. One is 224 (also known as Tad-Dutch) in Qala for a refreshingly original menu that makes the best of what’s in season.

The other is Tmun in Mġarr that maintains a charmingly traditional service and yet keeps a very contemporary kitchen going.

Finally, a special mention goes to two places that have consistently fed me very affordable lunchtime snacks that are pleasingly different. Stuzzico in St Venera won’t bat an eyelid if I want truffle or wild boar mortadella and still charges less than a fiver.

Just as aptly named is Ma Che Bonta in St Julian’s that, for the same price, serves home cooking that fills the belly, warms the soul, and tastes just perfect.

In our books, a great year is one during which we share fabulous food and wine with friends and people who are dear to us.

We raise our glasses on this first day of the year, and wrap up by wishing our lovely readers a fantastic new year.

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