When the mercury rises in London and the locals long for the breeze on the coast, the coolest place to go is Brighton.

Just an hour away from central London by train, this once faded seaside town has firmly established itself as the place to go for a pebble beach, some fabulous food and a laid back, eccentric atmosphere.

Here are the 10 best bets to help you make the most of your time in Brighton, whether you want to soak up the funky atmosphere in the bars or do some quirky shopping in the ancient and winding Lanes.

Best breakfast: Brown Sugar Café, Western Road, Hove (edge of Brighton).

Traditional breakfast cafés in the UK are known as ‘greasy spoons’ and Brown Sugar wears the title with pride. The café serves up one of the best great British fry-ups: large portions of fried tomatoes, eggs, bacon, hash browns and toast come straight from the frying pan onto cheap china plates. It’s not haute cuisine, but it tastes amazing with a mug of strong, brick-red tea. Tel:+44 (0) 1273 202 828

Best lunch: Fishy Fishy, 36 East Street, Brighton

Brighton has more restaurants per head than anywhere else in the UK except London, so the choice for lunch is vast, but Fishy Fishy is a great place to start. The owner is working to improve the environmental record of the fishing industry and serves beer-battered, sustainable fish and chips in this homely brasserie. Tel: +44 (0)1273 723750

Best dinner: Terre à Terre, 71 East Street, Brighton

Brighton is one of the best destinations worldwide for vegetarians and Terre à Terre is part of the reason why. It serves vegetarian food so good, even the most hardened meat eaters become converts to the intense flavours and gorgeous textures.

The chefs push the boundaries of traditional cuisine and miss out the meat along the way with dishes such as truffled artichoke and poached egg soup or broad bean espresso with samphire, linseed leaf relish and asparagus soldiers. Try it – you won’t regret it. Tel: +44 (0)1273 729051

Best hotel: Gerrards Hotel, 19 New Steine, Brighton

You can’t accuse Gerrards of being conservative. Each of the hotel’s eight rooms is decked out in a different theme, ranging from jungle to alpine, complete with fake windows containing the appropriate vista. So if the weather in Brighton is grey, you can still luxuriate in your bed overlooking a desert island.

The place is quite bonkers and the prices aren’t bad either at around €45 for a double midweek in low season. Tel: +44 (0) 1273 818700

Best self-catering: The Boat House, Brighton

For something a little different, try this studio apartment built on a marina jetty, which rises and falls with the tide; you can’t get much closer to the sea. The studio is beautifully decorated and has a west facing terrace to watch the setting sun. Prices start at €100 per night for up to three people, with a minimum two night stay. Tel: +44 (0) 1273 302758

Best pub: The Hand in Hand, 33 Upper James Street, Brighton

The Hand in Hand is Brighton’s smallest pub and has its own micro brewery. If you manage to get a table, you’re in for a great night sampling the ale and admiring the Victorian decoration. Try the Dark Star Victorian Ruby Mild – it lives up to the grandeur of its name.

Best shopping: The Lanes, Brighton town centre

The Lanes are a historic maze of twisting alleys, nook and crannies, all crammed with independent little shops offering everything from homemade hippie clothes to bespoke perfumes. There is even a vegetarian shoe shop. Prices tend to be a little high, but the items you are buying might also be one-offs – a great place for unique gifts.

Best day out: Devil’s Dyke

You can have a fine day out on the beach, watching the Brits strip off and dive into the frigid waters of the English Channel as soon as there’s a hint of sun in the sky. Given the arctic temperatures even in summer, however, you might want to save your swimming for Għadira, and instead head to Devil’s Dyke, in the nearby countryside.

This beautiful spot has spectacular views of the South Downs National Park. Emulate the English by taking a picnic and lashings of ginger beer. Open top buses run regularly in the summer from the centre of town. Call Traveline on +44 871 2002 233 for details.

Best entertainment: Brighton Komedia, North Laine, Brighton

Komedia Brighton has its finger on the pulse of live entertainment, with an extraordinary mix of comedy, music and cabaret. You can make a night of it by ordering food, although be aware that as you tuck into your chicken wings, you might become the next butt of the comedian’s jokes – they love a bit of audience participation. Book online at www.komedia.co.uk.

Best sights: Royal Pavilion/Sewer Tour

The Royal Pavilion is impossible to miss, an astonishing folly of a seaside palace built by the Prince Regent George IV, then transformed by John Nash into one of the most exotic buildings in Britain. You can spend a couple of happy hours wandering through its sumptuous rooms. For something a little more off the beaten track, try a sewer tour.

The Victorian sewerage system is a marvel of Victorian civil engineering, although you will no doubt be glad that things have moved on a bit since then. The tour starts under the Palace Pier, meanders for an hour, then emerges from a manhole in Old Steine Gardens. Book in advance with Southern Water on +44 (0) 1903 2726 06.