For years, the Danish and Swedish capitals of Copenhagen and Stockholm have vied for the title of ‘The Capital of Scandinavia’, each provoking the other. Neither has yet legally claimed the title but both have used it in marketing campaigns, confusing clueless travelers to this northernly part of Europe.
However, even though only a 16-kilometre bridge separates Sweden and Denmark, the two nations are far from similar.
While Stockholm was, historically, the ‘big brother’ in Scandinavia, and Sweden has Scandinavia’s largest population, Copenhagen is closer to continental Europe (a major bonus according to the Danes) and, without a question, has the biggest, and best, airport in Scandinavia.
Copenhagen also hosted the UN Climate Change conference in 2009 which put the city firmly on the global map. Also famous for Shakespeare’s Hamlet, fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen, cutting-edge design, massive off-shore wind farms, shipping, Carlsberg and, more recently and unfortunately, provocative cartoons, Denmark is often a breath of fresh air from its other Scandinavian neighbours, even if sometimes a windy one.
By far one of the best ways to see Copenhagen is by bike as there are very few hills above 30 metres in this low-lying, flat-as-a-pancake country. Every inch of Copenhagen is streamlined with well-maintained cycle paths making cycling (weather permitting) one of the most pleasant and quickest ways to get from A to B. If you haven’t been on a bike for a few years, it might be worthwhile to refresh your skills before you hit the cycle paths because the Danes simply don’t tolerate ‘dangerous’ or ‘stupid’ cyclists.
Once you’ve rented your wheels for 24 hours, start off at the hippie paradise and free-spirited self-governing area of Christiania, whose residents are exempt from paying steep Danish taxes and smoke pot freely. When you enter or leave Christiania, you will be amused by the wooden sign hanging overhead which proclaims that you are now entering or leaving the EU. Even though Christiania is only a few blocks away from the downtown area, they are worlds apart.
Next stop is Nyhavn, the original fishing harbour, lined with old wooden sailing vessels. It’s a classic touristic haunt, but it’s also a nice place to stop off for a Carlsberg beer and a shrimp smørrebrød (open sandwich) and a spot of people watching.
Afterwards, follow the water past the Danish royal family’s winter residence at Amalienborg, the original fortress walls at Kastellet and up to the Little Mermaid, inspired by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen, and the symbol of Copenhagen. But don’t expect a massive monument; the mermaid is actually a very modest sculpture. She’s also been through some rough times lately, having being sprayed with graffiti and paint and covered with a turban.
Along the other side of the waterfront you will also catch a glimpse of the achingly cool and modern Opera House. Wind your way back through Kongens Nytorv and up Strøget, the pedestrianised shopping street, before ending up at Tivoli, the landmark amusement park loved by locals and tourists alike for the past 165 years and considered one of the oldest, and nicest, amusement parks in Europe.
Even if you’re not into fast hair-raising rides, it’s worth a stroll around with all its cafes, restaurants and gardens. The last time I visited Tivoli, I spotted Denmark’s Princess Alexandra with her new husband and two kids, waiting in line for the rollercoaster just like everyone else!
If cycling’s not your cup of tea, hop on and off the water bus at Nyhavn and it will take you down the water as far as the Royal Library (the Black Diamond) and back up past the Little Mermaid and Opera House.
If you like museums and culture, you’re in the right place. Copenhagen is bursting at the seams with everything from modern art museums to the Carlsberg Museum and the Danish Design Centre. Then there’s the Opera House and the Royal Theatre with regular opera, ballet and theatrical performances. If you’re lucky you might catch a glimpse of the Queen and her husband, opera and theatre lovers, in the Royal Box at either venue.
If you venture out of town, Hamlet’s castle in the seaside village of Helsingør, one hour from Copenhagen, is worth a visit. The coastline north of Copenhagen right up to Gilleleje is scattered with badehoteller (bathing hotels) and sandy beaches with grass-lined cliffs.
Don’t expect the French Riviera or to find trendy cafes and five-star spa resorts with the sunshine to match. The idea behind this stretch of coastline is to take it easy and enjoy the peace and quiet, taking long walks along the coast or indulging in some water-sports like fishing or sailing.
Last but not least, no trip to Copenhagen is complete without seeing the famous Øresund bridge once, either through the window of the plane or by crossing over to the neighbouring Swedish city of Malmö by car or train.
Whatever your interests, whether the sun shines or it buckets rain, you can be guaranteed that you will never get bored in Copenhagen – just make sure you have an umbrella, two wheels and a credit card...
Top 10 things to do
1. Rent a bike for the day and cycle around the inner city.
2. Take a peek at the bridge or travel across it by car/train.
3. Enjoy a beer and smørrebrød at Nyhavn.
4. Take the water boat from Nyhavn to view the city from the water.
5. Take a jog along the three lakes.
6. Wander around Illums Bolighus and try not to blow your credit card.
7. Have some smushi (a combination of sushi and smorgas) at the Royal Copenhagen Café on Strøget.
8. Try the old wooden rollercoaster at Tivoli.
9. Take a cortado coffee at Café Europa on Amagertorv.
10. Take a stroll through Christiania.
Some tips...
• Try to avoid taking taxis. They are expensive, drivers are often rude and they sometimes take you on lengthy detours. The public transport system is excellent and cycling is also a good way to get around.
• The Danish Krone is very strong and alcohol prices are expensive (it is Scandinavia after all where alcohol is heavily taxed). In restaurants, having an alcoholic beverage or glass of wine can often set you back €6 to €15, and that’s not even for a large glass.
• If you want to do all the sights, attractions and use public transport, it might be worthwhile investing in the Copenhagen Card.
• Almost every Dane speaks good English so it is easy to communicate.
• Danes can be very patriotic so showing admiration for their country can score you brownie points and get you better service.
• The famous Øresund bridge costs €40 one-way so if you are less than four people, it makes more sense financially to take the train which is around €23 per person return.