Neo-Gothic in style with contemporary accents, there are few places more worthy of commemorating a special anniversary than the Angel Orensanz Foundation in New York City.

Charles and Ron’s latest collection, entitled Amare Argentum, was not only a commemoration of the 25 years they have been together, but it was also a celebration of their creative oneness amalgamated in silver.

Always using the Mediterranean as their point of departure, the designers usually adapt their colour palette to the season they are focusing on. While spring/summer 2017 revolved around bright colours reminiscent of the technicolour, sun bleached days that are so characteristic of the Maltese islands, this autumn/winter was a far more muted, albeit vibrant, affair.

Infusing their latest collection with a 1970s vibe, the beautiful looks wouldn’t have looked out of place in a Biba or Ossie Clark show, and did much to highlight the models’ willowy silhouettes. By making use of the colours that characterise Mediterranean winters, the dresses took on a quasi-ethereal sheen as the deep sea blues set off the sunset pinks and lilacs. All this was tied together with silver, which bore particular significance in this collection.

A well-known symbol of magic and luck for island dwellers, the dolphin made for a surprisingly playful and unexpected motif

Indeed, it was not only the silver accents that served as foil to the other colours of the collection, but in celebration of their 25th anniversary, Charles and Ron reintroduced the traditional Maltese craft of silver filigree that they have employed in many of their past looks. However, this time they paid special homage to the dolphin.

A well-known symbol of magic and luck for island dwellers as illustrated by the brass door knockers found on many a Maltese door and Tunisian doorstep, the dolphin made for a surprisingly playful and unexpected motif. Never ones to stray from their great love for Maltese symbolism, these intricate dolphins were kept company by Maltese Cross filigree shapes. Both motifs were printed on in-house designed fabrics and juxtaposed with Charles and Ron’s trademark striped fabrics to stunning effect.

Although Charles and Ron’s penchant for using graphic print has become something of a signature for the dynamic duo, this autumn/winter collection took things a step further and included hand-beaded tulle and stud embellishments which gave the clothes a glittering, jewel-like quality.

One of my personal favourites was an incredibly light feather jacket, a definite statement piece embodying New York’s Studio 54 vibe to perfection. For those who still wanted to make a statement without going down the feathery route, there were short silk bomber jackets with flowing open sleeves and short blue brocade dolphin-decorated jackets with capped sleeves floating over full sleeves.

Despite the fact that brocade usually falls on the heavier side of the cloth weight spectrum, there was nothing heavy looking about the short jacket or billowy brocade dress made from the same fabric. Indeed, the collection had airiness to it that one might not immediately associate with the darker months.

The dolphin motif was also repeated in beaded embroidery, and in keeping with the underlying theme of love, hearts were integrated into a number of pieces, giving the entire collection an air of romance. In keeping with the richness and opacity of the colour palette, the fabrics ranged from silk to this season’s favourite, velvet.

These last years have seen a surge in Charles and Ron accessories, which usually have something for everyone, and this season was no different, as their ubiquitous handbag line included lilac belt bags, which I’m sure will be pretty popular with the brand’s younger demographic, as well as instant classics such as their mini box bag on a chain.

This year’s ‘Queen’ bag, launched in previous seasons, comes in a micro version and is also available with contrasting combinations for the bolder wearer.

The show was a clear celebration of love and life. Not only was the collection fun and flirty, but its deeper significance gave the whole collection an underlying depth and meaning to the duo’s sartorial creations. Truly one of my favourites.